By Marinieves Tejeda. Cover image Post Archive Faction (PAF) courtesy.
The summer edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, number 108, will take place in Florence at Fortezza da Basso from June 17 to 20, 2025. This event will shine a spotlight on the most innovative talents in menswear from both Italy and around the world. This immersive platform isn’t just a showcase for the latest collections; it has become a true radar for global trends, unexpected collaborations, and bold visions for the future of men’s fashion.
This year, all eyes are on the Spring/Summer 2026 collections, featuring seven curated sections that outline the new archetypes of masculine style: Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, I Go Out, Becycle, and Scandinavian Manifesto.
Within this fresh concept-driven framework, here are six names and shows I’m particularly excited about.
Top Menswear Trends at Pitti Uomo 108 for SS26
1. Homme Plissé Issey Miyake: Iconic Innovation in Menswear Design
This year’s guest of honour at Pitti Uomo 108, Issey Miyake, continues to lead the way with its pioneering textile innovations and signature pleating Homme Plissé. Since day one, the Japanese brand has envisioned “clothes of the future”—a blend of function, comfort, and poetic design. Minimalist yet expressive, Issey Miyake garments blur the lines between body, movement, and form, making every piece feel like wearable art.
Launched in 2013, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake is based on the technology of garment pleating, creating everyday wear that is universal and adaptable to the diverse needs of its wearers. The garments are wrinkle-resistant, quick-drying, lightweight, and easy to wear, designed to adapt to each wearer’s body while bringing out individual personality. The uniformity of the pleated fabric encourages freedom in mixing and matching pieces, allowing wearers to discover more about themselves through their style.
In other words, it’s fashion that moves with you, flexes with your vibe, and lets you own your look—no rules, just endless possibilities.
2. Niccolò Pasqualetti: Gender-Fluid Menswear with Sculptural Precision
Niccolò Pasqualetti, also featured as a guest designer at Pitti Uomo 108, brings a modern and conceptual style to the fashion scene. Born in 1994, Pasqualetti trained at Iuav in Venice, studied in Belgium, and gained experience at The Row in New York and London. He further refined his aesthetic during his time at Loewe in Paris. In 2021, he launched his eponymous brand and received the prestigious Franca Sozzani Award, followed by the Camera Moda Fashion Trust award in both 2023 and 2024.
Now splitting his time between Paris and his native Tuscany, Pasqualetti collaborates with local artisans to produce his collections. He skillfully blends sculptural silhouettes with sustainable fabrics, challenging traditional gender binaries while embracing a fluid approach. His designs are organic yet structured, dreamy yet grounded.
Pasqualetti is quickly emerging as a significant voice in contemporary menswear—a name to watch for anyone who values innovation, purpose, and thoughtful design. We look forward to seeing how he brings his visionary approach to life on the Pitti Uomo runway this season.
3. Post Archive Faction (PAF): Korean Techwear Reimagined at Pitti Uomo 108
As part of the new Code Korea section, be sure to check out the South Korean brand PAF, established by young designers Dongjoon Lim and Sookyo Jeong in 2018. As the Guest Designer for June 2025, Post Archive Faction (PAF) will present a specially designed event for Pitti Uomo and its international audience. The label stands out for its futuristic take on sportswear, combining function, tech, and architectural structure. PAF views fashion as a tool for critical thinking, questioning today’s aesthetic and social norms through sleek, high-performance designs.
“Post Archive Faction is the archive of the future,” states Dongjoon Lim, the creative director of PAF. This statement encapsulates their mission perfectly: merging the old and the new to create next-level menswear that transcends mere clothing, creating a whole mood. If you’re into fashion that makes you think and breaks the rules, PAF is the brand to keep an eye on.
4. Modern Guayabera Revival by Alonzo Trezzo
Mexican designer Alonzo Trezzo, originally from Yucatán, approaches fashion from a unique perspective, blending tradition with innovation. His menswear collection, set to be showcased at Pitti Uomo, revitalises the guayabera—a traditional Cuban shirt that is popular throughout Latin America and parts of the Caribbean. This shirt is known for its distinctive vertical pleats (alforzas) and front pockets and is typically made from linen, making it suitable for formal or festive occasions.
Trezzo reinterprets this classic piece of menswear with fresh colours, updated designs, and a refined, dandy-like flair. He notes that for many years, the guayabera was considered a garment for “grandpas or politicians,” leading young people to shy away from wearing it. His mission is to keep this tradition alive and relevant, transforming it into something contemporary and stylish.
His modern take includes new buttons, collar shapes, and designs that pair well with various trousers and styles. Trezzo emphasises that, like any art form, the guayabera needs to be promoted and showcased to prevent it from fading into obscurity. For him, carrying forward this emblematic garment means celebrating cultural identity while pushing the boundaries of menswear with sophistication and modernity.
Alonzo Trezzo isn’t just bringing back a classic—he’s rewriting the rules. If you want to embrace tradition with a new twist, keep an eye on this collection. The guayabera has just levelled up, and so should your wardrobe. It’s time to flex tradition like never before.
5. Children of the Discordance: Storytelling Streetwear at Pitti Uomo
Finally, founded in 2011 by Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama, Children of the Discordance is an outstanding brand for the SS26 season and will be featured in Florence as a Special Event.
On the evening of Tuesday, June 17, at Stazione Leopolda, Children of the Discordance will present a runway show event for Pitti Uomo and its global community in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organisation. Additionally, the brand’s menswear collection will also be showcased at the Fortezza da Basso within Futuro Maschile, the section dedicated to the new elegance of contemporary menswear.
The label merges elements from vintage archives with a contemporary urban aesthetic, resulting in a menswear line that is rich in identity, memory, and soul. It is designed for those who seek authenticity and storytelling, offering a unique perspective on streetwear. With meticulous attention to detail and layered narratives, the brand continues to push the boundaries of traditional menswear, making each piece both a statement and a conversation starter.
6. Istituto Marangoni Firenze Runway: Where Fashion Meets Language & Craft
And how could our school possibly miss out? Get ready for an incredible event! Final-year students from Istituto Marangoni Firenze are presenting TEXT(S)TURE(S)—a concept-rich runway that delves into the relationship between “text” and “texture.” Think of it as a fashion-language crossover, highlighting the intersection of materials, codes, and communication. It’s a reflection on how fashion communicates and celebrates craftsmanship, especially at a time when AI is transforming the creative process.
The importance of human touch is still paramount, and this show emphasises that. If you would like to learn more about it, read here!
Why Pitti Uomo is a Barometer for Global Menswear Innovation
Pitti Uomo 108 is shaping up to be an exciting edition, reimagining menswear from various perspectives: tech-driven, sustainable, culture-conscious, and artistic. From heritage names to emerging voices, this season is all about reshaping how we dress and redefining masculinity.
