By Aria Ixchel. Photographs by Gabriele Busi.

What really happens during a fitting?
Far removed from the flashes of the runway and the curated photos, the true magic of fashion often unfolds behind the scenes. With only weeks left until Istituto Marangoni’s 2025 Fashion Show, I had the opportunity to go backstage with one of last year’s Top 10 designers, Nora Bağdasaroğlu, and to glimpse into the hidden world where runway dreams begin: the fitting room.
From the first spark of concept development, through the nerve-wracking moment when her sketches faced the jury, to the whirlwind of refining silhouettes after receiving that life-changing acceptance email, Nora guides us through every stitch, pin, and perfectly placed pleat. What emerges is a portrait of calm discipline under pressure, where luxury craftsmanship intersects with the urgency and adrenaline of bringing an idea to life from scratch.

As a new class of students prepares their own collections, Nora’s story offers a rare, behind-the-scenes look at the meticulous preparation and creative intensity that precede the spotlight. Step into the quiet ballet of the fitting room, and discover how vision, tenacity, and a handful of well-placed safety pins can turn a concept board into runway poetry.

An Inside Gaze: Let the Beauty of the Fashion Fitting Process Begin

Nora, before we dive into your collection, can you tell us a little about yourself and how your journey in fashion began?

I’m Nora Bağdasaroğlu. I’m 22 years old, Armenian and raised in Instabul. I just completed my three-year Fashion Design and Accessories course at Istituto Marangoni Firenze. Currently, I’m assisting Fashion Design students at Istituto Marangoni Firenze.

When you first envisioned this collection, what feeling or stories did you want the garments to convey? Did that vision evolve during the fittings?

I always aimed to tell a story that people can learn from when they see the collection, something meaningful about life. I think fashion is a powerful form of art. In fact, it represented a spiritual concept for me—a kind of daydream. 
We seem to have two types of dreams: the ones we experience while sleeping, and the ones we have while awake. The latter often carry messages from the universe that contribute to a holistic awakening. This collection is an example of a daydream, which is why I incorporated various fabric manipulations like plissé, Canadian smocking, and pleated tucks, using a lot of colour to make it even more powerful. 

Behind the Scenes of a Fashion Fitting: From Sketch to Runway Debut

What are the timelines for creating a concept and bringing it to life?

Before our third year begins, typically around July or August, we get an email to prepare a pre-collection of about ten outfits, complete with concepts, research, and sketches. This approach ensures that when classes start, we already have work to showcase, as nine months can feel almost too short. After getting approval from our tutors, we further develop the concept and the collection. Each month, we hold fittings where we introduce additional pieces, adding them one by one. Once the first outfit is approved, we create calico prototypes, followed by the actual garments for the fashion show. In May, tutors preselect our pieces, and an external jury reviews the collection before we proceed to the final steps.

Are there different stages for the fashion fittings, and is there a “main” fitting process?

No, all fittings are essential since each one plays a role in achieving the final result.

The fitting room is often where a garment undergoes its final transformation before hitting the runway. What do those quiet, meticulous moments mean to you as a designer?

Well, the fitting room is always “the place of the unexpected.” You go in there thinking, “My garment is done; I think it’s perfect,” but then an idea arises, and the garment evolves into something entirely different in our minds. Suddenly, it’s like, “Hm, that works!”. We find ourselves imagining the same thing, and then, it’s always a surprise. There is one comment, neither purely positive nor negative, that resonates deeply and usually leads to further development because there’s always something to adjust, whether it’s a technical issue or in enhancing how you tell your story. Tutors understand what you’re trying to convey and can provide feedback like, “I think your story is larger than this,” and it becomes clear once you’re there. It truly is the place of unexpectedness.

How do you balance your artistic instinct with the technical precision required in fittings?

That’s a great question. When working on a collection, we don’t overthink the “how.” If you know your concept and collection well, the ideas flow naturally. 
I remember struggling with the last final outfit, the fuchsia dress. I needed to draw it as a proposal to show my tutors, but I was overwhelmed with work and hadn’t set aside enough time to draw. I was just thinking so hard. As I was working on my iPad, I found it difficult to focus. Then, in a moment of clarity, an idea suddenly came to me. It wasn’t even what I had been trying to develop earlier; it just came when I stopped forcing it. 
I told myself to think clearly, and with that sense of spontaneity, the design took shape. When you create that inner peace and truly understand what you want to express, inspiration flows. Our artistic approach should blend with our personality, taste, and message. Sometimes,  I believe we don’t have to push ourselves too hard. When you try too hard, it shows in your work. It’s about remaining relaxed, trusting the process, and knowing your collection; that’s where the balance lies.

What Really Happens Behind the Scenes? A Turning Point in the Fitting Room for Fashion Fitting

Was there a moment during the fitting process that felt like a breakthrough?

I will always remember a specific fitting that holds a special place in my heart. We were starting to present our real garments for the fittings, and then it was my turn. Before I entered the room, my heart raced with anxiety, even though I was familiar with the same tutors we had been seeing every day for weeks. But that was “the fitting day.” You want everything to be perfect. On that day, I brought my real garment and then they started to applaud me, saying, “You did it, brava!”. I will always cherish that fitting because I entered the room with no expectations, and hearing their applause was unforgettable. When I came out, my friends were also very happy for me. Every garment requires so many details based on its design and concept, and balancing all those details with timing can be challenging. During this fitting, I felt somewhat behind, but they reassured me, saying, “You are doing very well.” It made me happy to know that my efforts were being recognised.
My friends and I didn’t have a competitive spirit toward each other; we all wanted to be in the show for sure, but we also understood that others could excel too. Our biggest challenge was not competing with other collections but rather managing our time. I love my collection as well as my friends’ collections. 

So, it’s not about competing with others; it’s about competing against time.

Exactly! In fact, that’s why we all support each other. There was one time when I was on track, while my friend was struggling. I offered to help by taking part of her work home to finish.

Getting to the Final Steps of the Process

You’re working at the intersection of vulnerability and strength. How do you navigate that intimacy during fittings? How did you achieve consistency between the intended message and the results?

Honestly, during fittings, we focus heavily on production. Once we decide on the outfit we’re creating, the concept can momentarily fade from our minds because we’re concentrated on developing the garments. While the idea is always there, it may take a backseat during the construction process. You can even forget it for a moment, but it never truly disappears.
It all comes down to passion. Without passion, it is a really hard process. I would redo all of that, despite the chaos it was. The moment you decide to tell that story, passion becomes the key.

Now that you’ve experienced the journey from start to finish, how would you describe that reality after seeing the whole process? What advice would you give to those who are still navigating it?

First of all, it was such an emotional experience. I remember crying at times, and there were moments I don’t fully recall because of all the adrenaline. We were shaking during the fashion show. For me, participating in a fashion show with my own collection was a dream come true. It felt both rewarding and unbelievable, especially because the entire process seemed to happen so fast. Instead of taking nine months, it felt more like nine weeks.
Yes,I had the opportunity to be in the fashion show, but that’s not the main point. The real highlight was creating my own collection and having the chance to develop my vision. After graduating, if you work for a brand (unless you immediately start your own), you’re not often given the freedom to say, “Okay, do whatever you want.” Instead, there’s always someone directing you on how things should be done. So, I think having the opportunity to design our own collections is really nice because we can express ourselves freely.
To the students, I advise you to embrace this opportunity and appreciate its uniqueness. Whether or not you end up on the runway, you will have a collection that tells your story. Even if you don’t showcase it on the runway, you still get to have something that belongs to you.  This entire journey is a really dreamy process, and students should see it as a rare opportunity that equips them with the skills and confidence to pursue their dreams, even when the world outside gets tough.

How Courage and Creativity Make It All Possible

I wish I could fully express the feeling I had immediately after finishing my interview with Nora. The passion in her eyes as she spoke about her long-lasting experience mirrored the infinite possibilities that lie ahead. We are at a stage in our lives where we have the freedom to pursue our passions, which can be both frightening and empowering. It is an incredible opportunity that we should never take for granted. 
As Nora said, we all have the choice to tell our own stories. It takes courage to follow that passion and to confront the challenges that arise along the way. As she noted, the journey “is a really dreamy process”—the kind that belongs to those of us who are awake and engage with life. Fuelled by passion, authenticity and hard work, anything truly is possible.
If you’re curious about how fashion students navigate this intense process, check out this helpful guide on How to Survive a Fitting: Fashion Student POV.