By Giulia Piceni. Cover image: Niccolò Pasqualetti.
There is a name that has been increasingly prominent in the latest fashion news, and that name is Niccolò Pasqualetti. Over the past two years, he has been showcasing his collections in Paris. This year, he became not only a finalist for the LVMH Prize but also won the Camera Moda Fashion Trust award. In celebration of Vogue Italia’s 60th anniversary, Isabella Rossellini was featured wearing his designs from head to toe, from garments to jewellery.
But who is Niccolò Pasqualetti? This article explores everything you need to know about this rising star, who is poised to revolutionise the fashion industry with his eclectic yet polished style.
Creating Timeless Fashion from a Contemporary Past
Pasqualetti describes his work as a narrative of “forgotten things,” from garments left behind in trunks to a style of dressing that, in its simplicity, feels both timeless and anachronistic. This deep connection to Italian tailoring is evident in his designs, where a classic skirt might transform into trousers through a subtle cut-out, or a mantel might seamlessly integrate into a blazer. These subtle disruptions echo the 3% rule championed by Virgil Abloh, proving that even small changes can make a significant impact.
Through collaboration with manufacturers and artisans, Pasqualetti brings his vision to life by merging the slow craftsmanship of his Tuscan heritage with the industrial rhythms necessary for success in today’s competitive fashion world. His creations embody the fluidity of stone and the sensuality of water – as the designer himself stated in a previous interview – balancing tradition with innovation. Pasqualetti also prioritises sustainability, valuing the use of recycled components and stock fabrics to minimise environmental impact. Through these choices, he not only honours his roots but also contributes to a more responsible future in fashion.
Ambiguity and Eclecticism through Details: the Two Ingredients for a Unique Style
San Miniato, nestled in the heart of Tuscany near Pisa, is where Niccolò Pasqualetti hails from. It is a region renowned for Italy’s rich tradition of high-quality craftsmanship, a heritage that has deeply influenced him. Already an established figure in contemporary fashion, Pasqualetti is a rising star destined to shine even brighter. His artistic vision is shaped by both eclecticism and ambiguity, reflecting his diverse academic and professional experiences.
His work reveals the neutral-toned, minimalist influence from his time at The Row in New York, as well as a fresh, modern twist on Italian sartorial heritage – an approach he shares with fellow Italian designer Veronica Leoni. Additionally, Pasqualetti incorporates the playful spirit of Loewe, where he also worked, through ironic fabric choices, unexpected cuts, and innovative combinations of materials.
In Pasqualetti’s work, ambiguity is achieved through a fluid blend of menswear and womenswear. This concept is reflected in the brand’s logo, which consists of two irregularly shaped circles resembling water drops, close to each other but not yet merged, symbolising a potential union. Every detail in his designs is carefully considered to integrate seamlessly into everyday life.
This free-flowing creativity, evident in both his process and creations, can undoubtedly be traced back to his academic experiences at the experimental IUAV in Venice and the cutting-edge Central Saint Martins in London.
Jewellery to Fashion: Niccolò Pasqualetti’s Journey to Textile Innovation
Sarah Mower once described him as having a true “talent for textures,” referring to his remarkable ability to create cutting-edge tactile sensations through garments. This expertise in texture is also rooted in the craft that first introduced Pasqualetti to the fashion world: jewellery design. Beginning his career as a jewellery designer, Pasqualetti’s fondness for intricate details continues to shine through in his otherwise minimalist designs.
A prime example is the necklace crafted from perfume bottle stoppers, blending macramé techniques with the beads and pearls that adorned his latest Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection. In a video, Pasqualetti discusses his key inspirations, which range from architectural forms to natural elements. A necklace made of corks strung on a ribbon speaks volumes about his dedication to this artistic craft. It’s impossible to ignore the nod to Margiela’s iconic cork necklace from the FW 1999 collection, making this reference all the more poignant.
Got Curious? Get a Closer Look at Fondazione Sozzani
If you’re intrigued by Pasqualetti’s artistic vision and happen to be in Milan, mark your calendar for September 18, right in the midst of fashion week. The prestigious Fondazione Sozzani will open its doors to celebrate Pasqualetti’s work with a retrospective that traces the evolution of his ideas from one collection to the next. This event signifies a momentous initiative from the Italian fashion system, eager to reclaim this revered talent, who has long been admired in Paris, and to bring his creative brilliance back to the Milanese fashion district.
