By Giulia Piceni. Cover image: Veronica Leoni
Recent news has shaken up the fashion world: Calvin Klein is returning to the runway and the brand has chosen Italian fashion designer Veronica Leoni as its new creative director. The comeback of the higher-end line of Calvin Klein 205W39NYC has taken many by surprise, as it wasn’t on their 2024 prediction chart. This revival marks a pivotal moment for the industry. In light of the recent trend of male designers taking the lead of major fashion houses, the appointment of Veronica Leoni, a woman, as the new creative director is a remarkable choice.
Having served on the jury for last year’s fashion show at Istituto Marangoni Firenze, Veronica Leoni, former design director of The Row and founder of Quira, is a creative who has always valued her roots, focusing on craftsmanship and the sartorial heritage passed down to her by her grandmother, Quirina.
Keep reading the article to learn more about Leoni and the brand that she will be leading creatively in the coming months.
Why for Calvin Klein Veronica Leoni is a hidden gem
Veronica Leoni is a Roman fashion designer who graduated in Literature and founded the brand Quira to honour her grandmother Quirina, a seamstress with a rebellious spirit. Veronica’s style blends sartorial elements from the late 18th century to the contemporary Balenciaga aesthetic but with a bold, modern twist inspired by her spiritual mentor, Phoebe Philo. Quira is a brand that stands out in today’s fast-paced world by promoting a slower, more attentive approach to craftsmanship and reviving a forgotten sense of sophistication in style.
Veronica Leoni was a hidden gem among Italian creatives for a long time. She gained experience working with minimalist brands such as Jil Sander, The Row and Céline. Her name started to gain more recognition in the fashion world when she was a finalist in the previous LVMH Prize alongside Luca Magliano. She is now Creative Director of the high-end line at Calvin Klein, and her first collection will be revealed during the AW 2024/2025 season.
Past interpretations of the Calvin Klein era: Raf Simons
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC reached a high point in the past under the creative direction of Belgian designer Raf Simons. His designs from that era are considered the Holy Grail of vintage pieces and are often hard to find on second-hand and vintage apps such as Vestiaire Collective or Grailed. During his short time at the brand, Simons offered his own take on the American Dream, viewed from the perspective of an outsider teenager who would listen to the Joy Division when they were still considered niche.
Denim, Americanas, cowboy boots with the rigid silver point, prints from a relatively unknown Warhol’s photographic series and references to the Golden Age of Hollywood were all part of Simons’ imaginative vision. His work portrayed the outsider and outcast, giving voice to the visual lexicon of the United States from his European perspective.
If you’re interested in a little fashion history lesson, here is a comprehensive overview of all the shows he created while at 205W39NYC:
The Raf Simons era is widely considered one of the most influential periods in recent fashion history due to its remarkable creative impact. However, the same creative power led it to stagnate in terms of sales and eventually caused the downfall of Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, which faced several economic challenges. Even the resort collections did not perform well commercially, causing a decline in public interest and sales. As a result, Raf Simons parted ways with the brand and soon after, he started collaborating with Prada, where he is now designing alongside La Signora, Miuccia Prada.
What can we expect from Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein?
Given that one of her main mentors is the high-priestess of minimalist fashion, Phoebe Philo, the aesthetic that we can anticipate from the Veronica Leoni era can be likened to one epitomised by Carolyn Bassette-Kennedy. It’s worth noting that the fashion icon had also previously worked for Calvin Klein, where she had the opportunity to meet the love of her life, JFK Jr.
So prepare to embrace sleek silks, high-quality cashmere and blazers all over the place. Veronica Leoni will showcase an emphasis on garment construction, blending a minimalist aesthetic with a maximalist approach to pattern making. In an interview with io Donna, fashion journalist Martina D’Amelio cited a Women’s Wear Daily interview with Eva Serrano, the brand’s CEO. Serrano uses the word calvinist to describe Leoni’s ethos at the NY-based brand, highlighting how she and the fashion designer share the same minimalist approach to fashion.
