By Agnete Bay Blichfeldt, Agnese Augusta Patriarca Bertoli and I’M Firenze Digest Editorial Staff. Cover image Pitti Bikes from Pitti Uomo 108 campaign lensed by Alessandro Timpanaro.
The Men’s Fashion Week SS26 is approaching, and with recent changes in the fashion industry, we are more excited than ever! Discovering the new aesthetics of the upcoming season is always thrilling, and this year feels particularly unique. We have taken a look at the currently stirred-up fashion industry to show you what to watch out for during the Men’s Fashion Week SS26.
Over the past few months, there has been significant movement among creative directors at high-end brands, leading to a remarkable number of new collection debuts. These creative directors are eager to establish their aesthetic vision and, in some cases, prove their worth in their new roles. For instance, Pierpaolo Piccioli has recently been appointed as the new creative director of Balenciaga, officially taking over on July 10, 2025, following Demna Gvasalia’s departure. This change makes us wonder how many style revolutions we can expect in the brand’s menswear as well.
While we don’t have a crystal ball yet, we do have the relevant dates for men’s fashion events to look forward to. From Pitti Uomo 108 in Florence to Fashion Weeks in Milan and Paris, we anticipate exciting debuts and trends in menswear for the summer of 2026.
Menswear SS26 Trends: Big Debuts, Bold Moves & The Future of Fashion
What to Expect at SS26 Menswear Trends + Fashion Week: Pitti, Milan & Paris Previews
PITTI UOMO 108, the Dynamic Summer Style of the Future for Menswear SS26 Trends
From June 17 to 20, the latest edition of Pitti Uomo will debut in Florence, spotlighting the world of menswear and the Spring/Summer 2026 collections, featuring over 730 brands, 43% of which are international. This year’s theme, PITTI BIKES, emphasises cycling through a playful lens titled BECYCLE. The bicycle encapsulates the dual nature of our times, representing a dynamic quest for balance between cities and rural areas, nature and urban landscapes, preservation and innovation, as well as solitude and social connection, value and belonging.
This event presents an opportunity to explore top brands in the cycling world, shifting the focus beyond mere sports to delve into both the technological and lifestyle aspects of cycling. It highlights research, innovation, material evolution, and design, all while expressing a desire to push boundaries. Notable brands participating include Ashmei, De Rosa, Nalini, Passoni, PH + Rolling Dreamers, Colnago and Pas Normal Studios. On June 18, Pas Normal Studios will host a cycling ride through the city, with the finish line right at the Fortezza.
Of course, Pitti Uomo wouldn’t be complete without special events featuring outstanding guests. For this 108th edition, the Guest of Honour is Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, while PAF (Post Archive Faction) and Niccolò Pasqualetti will grace the event in Florence as Guest Designers.
On Wednesday, June 18, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE, a line launched in 2013 known for its innovative fabric pleating technology, will present its spring-summer 2026 collection at the Villa Medicea della Petraia. This historic villa, once owned by the Medici family, will also host an exhibition showcasing the brand’s masterful pleating work.
There is also growing anticipation for Tuscan Niccolò Pasqualetti, a finalist for the LVMH 2024 Prize. A regular participant in Paris Fashion Week, where he showcases his collections in the official Womenswear calendar, Pasqualetti will bring his style and vision to Florence with a fashion show on June 19 at the LABIRINTO – Cavea del Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, marking the debut of his menswear collection. This endeavour comes at a pivotal moment, reflecting the influence of menswear codes on women’s wardrobes while emphasising a desire for precision and expressive details and promoting a sense of freedom in dressing.
The 19th is also PAF brand day. Following successful collaborations with Virgil Abloh ℅ Off-White™, District Vision and On, Post Archive Faction (PAF)—the menswear brand founded in 2018 by Korean designers Dongjoon Lim and Sookyo Jeong—will present an event at Stazione Leopolda in collaboration with the Korea Creative Content Agency. This event will allow attendees to experience their manifesto firsthand, showcasing a dynamic mosaic that includes archival content, asymmetrical cuts, sportswear-inspired solutions and experimental design.
The football aesthetic is set to remain a hot topic next summer, especially with the return of a project dedicated to the theme signed by Bikkembergs and Gosha Rubchinskiy. Together, they will relaunch the Belgian brand’s iconic football boot, reinterpreting it with an innovative design that blends sport and contemporary lifestyle. The launch will take place on June 17, coinciding with the opening day of the trade fair, using a “see now, buy now” model. Additionally, ICECREAM, the brand founded by Pharrell Williams and NIGO in 2003, will land in Florence within an immersive space located in the Cortile del Teatrino.
Why Milano Fashion Week Menswear SS 2026 is Slimmed Down to a Fashion Weekend
From the 20th to the 24th, we will leave Florence and head to Milan for Men’s Fashion Week, which has been significantly reduced to just a weekend. Several reasons contribute to this change, with the absence of prominent brands like Gucci, Fendi, and Zegna being the most notable. Each of them has its own rationale: Gucci is planning its official co-ed debut in September under Demna, Fendi is taking a break after its centenary celebrations, and Zegna has opted to showcase in advance in Dubai on 11 June.
However, this shift opens the door for several exciting newcomers. Notable first-time participants include Paul Smith, who is moving from Paris to present in a historic Milanese showroom, along with Fiorucci, Satoshi Kuwata’s SETCHU (the winner of the LVMH Prize and the Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant in 2023), and Qasimi, a brand with Middle Eastern heritage. Additionally, Pronounce, Dunhill and Simon Cracker will also make their debuts. Other emerging names include Uma Wang, Rowen Rose, Leonardo Valentini, Cascinelli and Meriisi.
We also eagerly anticipate the arrival of PDF, a brand founded by Domenico Formichetti and Saul Nash, another British brand. Since the British Fashion Council announced its strategic decision to cancel London Fashion Week Men’s in June, merging the February and September editions, the focus has shifted. Paris is now becoming the hub for the British Fashion Council (BFC) in supporting emerging men’s fashion talent, with the London Show Room format extended four times a year, including this June.
Will we also be patient enough during Loewe’s absence? The Spanish brand has decided to suspend its menswear show in June to make way for the debut of its new creative directors, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, in September.
Waiting for Three Decisive Debuts to Take Stock of the New Menswear Aesthetic
JW Anderson at Dior
One much-anticipated debut is that of Jonathan W. Anderson at Dior Homme for Menswear SS26. The designer has recently left Loewe and has quickly been appointed as the new creative director at Dior. We expect a fresh and innovative take on Dior’s menswear collections, which are already renowned for their significant media impact each season, making Dior a major name during Men’s Fashion Month.
Jonathan Anderson is known for his groundbreaking approach to fashion, and his collections are always filled with enthusiasm, telling the story of our times. We hope to see structured garments that impress, along with the great theatricality for which Anderson is known. This upcoming Dior collection is expected to be unlike any we have seen before, and Anderson is truly the perfect choice to resonate with the younger audience of the brand’s menswear after Kim Jones. Be sure to tune in on June 27.
Duran Lantink at JPG
Less often discussed but equally significant is Duran Lantink’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier. Both designers share a flair for controversy, with Lantink’s most recent collection being memorable for its striking first and last looks. Given Lantink’s new role at the French fashion house, we can gain valuable insights into his style. The collection features stripes everywhere and skin-like garments, which have long been hallmarks of Gaultier’s most iconic designs. However, the question remains: will Dutch designer Lantink be able to honour Gaultier’s rich heritage and genius? We are eager to see what unfolds.
We can surely expect the unexpected from Lantink’s first ready-to-wear collection, which will be presented in Paris during the RTW women’s fashion week on September 25, followed by his debut Haute-Couture collection in January 2026.
Demna for Gucci
In March, it was announced that Demna would be taking over as the creative director of Gucci. After spending ten years shaping Balenciaga’s sinister, sporty-luxury aesthetic, many fashion insiders were left wondering — and some even worried—about how he would merge his signature dark minimalism with Gucci’s vibrant, eclectic legacy.
Following the announcement, Kering Group’s stock dropped by 11%, a clear sign of the industry’s scepticism.
The upcoming menswear collection will be Demna’s opportunity to regain the industry’s trust and prove that he’s more than just Balenciaga’s “one-trick pony.” Recent Gucci collections have embraced oversized silhouettes, and it’s likely Demna will continue this trend—perhaps even pushing proportions further with looks that are bigger and more theatrical than ever. By summer 2026, we may see more leather than silk on the Gucci runway, but beyond that, it’s hard to picture what a ‘Demna for Gucci’ line will look like exactly. The “Gucci by Demna” womenswear collection will officially debut in September 2025. Francesca Bellettini, Vice CEO of Kering and Head of Brand Development, revealed that Demna will present an initial “glimpse” of the brand’s new direction in September, likely during Milan Fashion Week. As for menswear, we’ll have to wait until 2026. We can’t wait to find out!
