By Giulia Piceni. Cover image courtesy Gucci @Demna.

Demna Gvasalia, the Georgian fashion designer and former creative director of Balenciaga, has been appointed as the new creative director of Gucci. He is set to begin his role at Gucci in July 2025, succeeding Sabato De Sarno, who recently parted ways with the brand. The news has been a shock to many, but for Kering Group, it’s a strategic move aimed at revitalising Gucci, which has faced challenges in recent years. Demna’s unique perspective and ability to redefine luxury are expected to bring a fresh direction to the iconic Italian fashion house. However, we wonder if his creative approach can truly align with Gucci’s aesthetic, raising questions about whether his vision will resonate with the brand’s identity and legacy.

Is Demna’s Creative Direction at Gucci Just a Reheated Formula?

Demna at Gucci feels like overcooked pasta with too much salt: overwhelming yet bland, boiled for so long that it’s no longer enjoyable. Perhaps it’s my Italian sensibility for al dente textures, but his signature blend of social commentary and scandalous provocation risks becoming nothing more than a reheated dish (or “minestra riscaldata”, as we say in Italian). It may fill the plate, but does it still taste good?

Many have criticised Kering for removing Sabato De Sarno so soon, but the truth is that a clear creative vision should manifest from the very beginning. Alessandro Michele proved this with his debut at Gucci; everyone still remembers that iconic red silk blouse with its historical gorgette reference, a symbol that defined his era. De Sarno, on the other hand, made no bold statements. While his clothes were objectively beautiful, they were mild and unremarkable, like plain rice with no seasoning (yes, I will keep the food metaphors coming).

Can Demna Reinvent Himself at Gucci?

The reality is that Demna has exhausted his aesthetic at Balenciaga, and we could see it coming. A decade of his unique streetwear style has worn thin—not just for us but for him as well. The past few years, especially after the campaign scandal, have revealed his growing creative fatigue. Now, he’s seeking reinvention—a way to distance himself from his Balenciaga past—but can he truly do that? We haven’t forgotten.

The real question is: Is his style still relevant today? Can we easily return to his mid-2010s streetwear revolution? His appointment might signal a resurgence of that aesthetic, albeit with a new twist. Much has changed since then. The emergence of maranza style, or the subculture of Milanese gangster wannabes, in the latest Balenciaga show suggests that Demna’s approach to cultural commentary will remain the same, even if the subjects evolve. Ultimately, he was chosen for his keen understanding of contemporary culture, and we will undoubtedly see that reflected on the Gucci runway.

Balenciaga vs. Gucci

We must also acknowledge that Demna can craft conventionally beautiful garments, as seen in Balenciaga’s couture collections. Yet, there’s still a looming risk: will his work with Gucci simply replicate the Balenciaga aesthetic he left behind? Does his style truly align with the Florentine brand? Additionally, there is a risk of history repeating itself. Could this lead to another version of the 100th-anniversary collaboration between Demna and Alessandro Michele, where Balenciaga and Gucci briefly merged identities for the Hacker Project?
It’s important to point out that if Gucci is facing difficulties, Kering is faring no better. CEO Stefano Cantino is surely aware of this, and the market’s lukewarm reaction to Demna’s appointment speaks volumes—the recent drop in Kering’s stock price is certainly proof of that. Was he brought on board purely to stir things up?

Ultimately, what really matters for Italy’s biggest luxury brand is Demna’s ability to create viral, high-selling bags. His latest Balenciaga hits, such as The Rodeo and Le Cagole, demonstrated his talent for delivering an it-bag. The big question now is: Can he plicate that success for Gucci?

A New Beginning for Gucci

The hope is that he will present something radically different from his time at Balenciaga—not just another iteration of the Hacker Project but a fresh narrative. Even with a new aesthetic, his designs should retain the sharp social critique that made his early Balenciaga collections so compelling.
Gucci has been navigating uncertain waters in recent years. From De Sarno’s uninspiring tenure to an abrupt creative shift, the brand appears to be grasping for direction. As fashion enthusiasts, we are exhausted by this relentless game of chairs. It signals an industry caught in creative stagnation, struggling to find a clear path forward.
In a world consumed by crises, what role does fashion truly play? At times, creative efforts feel futile—history offers no clear guidance, and we find ourselves stumbling in the dark. Maybe Demna can drop the beat, turn on the strobe lights, and transform our stumbling into dancing.