By Rosa Smith. Cover image by Polina Zimenkova.
What is fragrance layering, and how do you master it?
Everyone’s talking about it: on TikTok, in niche fragrance forums, at your favourite concept stores. Fragrance layering—the art of combining two or more perfumes to create a unique scent—isn’t just a fleeting trend. It’s a powerful way to make your signature scent even more personal. But before you start randomly spritzing different scents, know this: layering is more of an art than an accident, and there are a few ground rules that can make all the difference.
To understand how it works and avoid common pitfalls, we turned to Marco Martello, a fragrance expert, journalist, and author of La formula del sentire – Atlante psico-emotivo delle fragranze (Do it Human editore). Here, he shares everything you need to know to become a true layering pro. We asked him the 10 most common questions to satisfy every curiosity and create your go-to mini guide to fragrance layering.
When did people start talking about fragrance layering? Why is it so popular today?
Fragrance layering is older than most people think. Even the ancient Romans used to apply different scented oils to various parts of their bodies, creating intoxicating olfactory blends. The popularity of layering today stems from our growing desire to personalise our scent trail, whether it reflects the season, our mood, a special occasion, or simply the time of day.
Is this all about personal expression, or are social media and culture also influencing the trend?
I believe it’s mostly about personal expression, especially the allure of exclusivity that fragrance layering offers. You’re not just wearing a scent; you’re crafting your own, unrepeatable perfume.
Is there a method to layering, or is it purely instinctual?
There are a few guidelines, but instinct plays a key role. When it comes to fragrance, it’s often your emotional and intuitive side that takes charge. My best advice? Don’t be afraid to experiment. Mistakes are part of the process.
How important is concentration, like EDP, EDT, oils, when it comes to layering?
It really depends on the result you’re going for. There are no strict rules; just make sure that one fragrance doesn’t overpower the other. It’s not just about concentration but also the intensity of the notes in each scent.
Any tips for layering during the summer?
In summer, I love to unwind before bed with a shower followed by a light layer of scented oil. The next morning, I complete the ritual by spraying a fragrance over the oil. This not only personalises the scent but also enhances its performance. My go-to scented oils are definitely those from Officine Universelle Buly.
Should you apply all the scents in the same spot or different areas of the body?
There are various opinions on this matter. I prefer applying each fragrance to a different part of my body, unless I’m layering a fragrance with a matching scented oil or cream. I also find the idea of layering scent through clothing to be fascinating; it reflects the beautiful complexity of human nature.
Are there any combinations you consider definite no-gos?
I once layered an amber-heavy oriental perfume with a floral fragrance, and the result smelled like a savoury vegetable tart. Not my proudest moment.
Does layering shorten a perfume’s longevity?
On the contrary, if done right, layering can extend a fragrance’s wear time. For example, applying a scented body cream before your fragrance can help lock in the scent, keeping it vibrant for longer.
Do you have any personal anecdotes from layering gone wrong or right?
At a launch event, a friend asked me what fragrance I was wearing. When I told him it was a new layering combo I was trying, he looked at me and said flat-out, “It didn’t work.” That was a turning point for me. Even combinations that seem perfect on paper can fall apart in practice. My advice? Pay attention to the result before leaving the house.
Any layering combos you absolutely love right now?
One of my current favourites is a combination of “Saffron” and “Incense Water” by Perfumer H. It’s a match made in olfactory heaven.
