By Chiara Salvadé. Cover image by La formula del sentire book’s cover by Marco Martello (DOitHUMAN Editori)
We have all, consciously or unconsciously, experienced the magical sensation of reliving a memory through the rediscovery of a fragrance. A familiar scent can transport us to a beloved world, such as our childhood, simply through our sense of smell. This happens because there is a deep connection between scents and emotions, which Marco Martello explains in detail in his first book, La Formula del Sentire, Atlante Psico-Emotivo Del Mondo delle Fragranze (DOitHUMAN Editori).
Marco, a communication expert specialising in the luxury and fashion sectors, collects fragrances from around the world and has created a journey that draws from his extensive experience and knowledge of the language of perfumes. In this psycho-emotional atlas, he explores the role of scents in our daily lives and their cultural significance throughout history, all the way to modern society. Wearing a fragrance is not merely an expression of style and elegance; it is also a way to rediscover oneself and understand our relationships with others.
This sensory journey includes many of Marco’s personal observations, along with significant stories from international perfume masters such as Oliver Cresp, Meo Fusciuni, Luca Maffei, and Julien Pruvost, who illustrate the communicative power of scent in everyday life. La Formula del Sentire is an essay that guides us toward introspection through bodily perception, not just limited to the present but also helping us rediscover ourselves through who we were in the past. The author presented the book in Florence on Thursday, January 30, at La Menagère, with journalist Ginevra Barbetti.
How Can I Tell If a Fragrance Is Right For Me?
Can we consider fragrance like a time machine that can transport us back to specific memories and situations?
Absolutely, yes, and there is a scientific explanation for this particular ability of perfumes and, more broadly, odours. When we encounter fragrances, the olfactory information is processed by our limbic system. It is then sent to the cortex—a part of the brain closely linked to memory and emotional responses.
Is the sense of smell influenced more by emotions or by words?
Without a doubt, it is guided by emotions! Just think that the sense of smell is often referred to as the “silent sense,” as there is no specific vocabulary to help us describe our olfactory experience of the world around us.
What is the Proust syndrome you mention in the book?
The Proust syndrome refers to the phenomenon where a taste or scent can evoke distant memories and emotions. For example, the famous French writer describes how a madeleine dipped in hot tea brings back past sensations. In my experience, it’s a dish made with potatoes, cheese, and mortadella that my grandmother used to prepare when I was a child.
How can we tell if a perfume is right for us?
We live in a society driven by image, which is why, in moments of uncertainty, I always recommend closing your eyes and envisioning a colour that reflects your current mood and the message you want to convey to the world. Once you have that colour in mind, ask yourself if it matches the tone and intensity of the fragrance you’re considering. I find that thinking of perfumes in visual terms makes choosing the right scent much easier.
What are the fragrances of your childhood and why?
When I think about my childhood and, more specifically, the fragrances that marked it, I cannot fail to mention “Aromatics Elixir” by Clinique, “Eau Sauvage” by Dior, and “Trésor” by Lancôme. After all, these were the perfumes worn by the people I cared about most in my life—Aunt Franca, Dad Roi, and Mom Monica. Among the fragrances I’ve just mentioned, “Eau Sauvage” holds a special place in my heart; it was the first fragrance I ever wore, and my dad taught me how to apply perfume with it.
You’ve met and interviewed several perfumers. What aspect has moved you the most, and in reference to whom or what?
It’s hard to choose just one, as each encounter was special and meaningful in its own way. However, one of the most recent and memorable was meeting the French perfumer Maurice Roucel, who created perfumes like “Iris Silver Mist” by Serge Lutens and “Musc Ravageur” by Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.
The saying goes, “The cowl doesn’t make the monk.” But what about perfume?
Great question! I think perfume, much like clothing, has the power to seduce, tempt, and, why not, deceive. It can serve as a tool for projecting a certain image of oneself and, at the same time, convincing others that it is genuine. So, in that sense, no, perfume does not make the monk.
Can we really believe that a particular fragrance, even if it’s far from our usual preferences, has the power to change our mood, making us feel like a “new” person?
Absolutely, yes. This is why it’s important to identify the note or olfactory family around which you want to build your fragrance collection. Just like in any family, a diverse collection has room for unusual or unexpected scents—the black sheep of the group. I believe it’s crucial to let yourself be guided by the sensations that a fragrance can evoke rather than getting lost in reasoning that often leads nowhere.
There’s a lot of talk about olfactory layering. What are the pros and cons?
I’m in favour of this practice. Many fragrance experts and creatives I’ve met believe that a good perfume doesn’t need any input from the wearer, but I see it differently. I think that layering fragrances is a great way to add a touch of uniqueness to your scent and also to adapt it to your mood or the specific moment of the day.
Pairing two or more fragrances is not a trivial task, so I recommend approaching it gradually, starting with simple, linear scents. It’s important to embrace the process by playing around, having fun, experimenting, and, why not, even making mistakes along the way.
What do you think about olfactory logos?
I think they are essential, as demonstrated by studies on the foundations of experiential marketing. Brands that haven’t yet used scent to establish a deep connection with their customers should definitely catch up. By leveraging the relationship between fragrance and emotions, these brands can ensure they are remembered and stand out from the competition.
Why has niche perfumery been gaining strength lately? How do you explain this strong attention?
First, I want to emphasise that the term “niche” is used far too lightly. Social media frequently circulates messages that are incomplete or even misleading, which creates confusion among consumers when it comes to differentiating between niche, commercial, artistic, and artisanal perfumery. With this, I don’t mean to deny the existence of niche perfumes, but rather to remind everyone that it is much smaller than it might seem.
Returning to your question, I think niche perfume can be likened to the latest it-bag. Its appeal stems from social desirability—the need to feel accepted by one’s social group or a desired group—by purchasing an object that appears exclusive. This sense of exclusivity drives a significant portion of sales.
