
By Laura Madero. Images Courtesy by Dries Van Noten SS 2225.
“Fashion is made of seasons, but my heart has always been rooted in gardens”. With these words, Dries Van Noten announced his retirement from fashion after 38 years of creative direction for his brand. Known for his eclectic approach and timeless aesthetic, he will now focus on two of his lifelong passions – gardening and perfumery. The botanical world has always been a deep source of inspiration for him, which is evident in his remarkable use of colours and innovative designs. Now, this passion will converge on the care and maintenance of his 55-acre garden at his home in Lier.
Is Dries Van Noten really focusing on perfume and gardening only?
A Deep Connection with Nature: How Gardening Inspired Dries Van Noten’s Artistic Vision even on perfume
As a member of the Antwerp Six, Dries Van Noten has always demonstrated a talent for innovation, creating a deep emotional connection through storytelling. With his keen eye for beauty, Dries has adopted a bold and radical aesthetic that has been incorporated into modernist couture. There has always been a strong link between Dries Van Noten’s designs and imagery of plants and flowers, highlighting the fact that nature has always served as a source of inspiration for him. “At first, I saw my garden as a kind of escape. Then I started to realise that escape is something that is part of me. The garden balances me as a human being. In fashion, you try to control everything. But in the garden, you have to obey nature. It helps me stay humble. But, above all, gardening has taught me patience.”
Why Dries Van Noten Left the Fashion Industry for Perfume
His transition into perfumery and gardening feels like a seamless extension of his artistic vision rather than a departure into completely uncharted territory. Even before launching his perfumes, Dries Van Noten was selling fragrances in his stores. “When I renovated my Antwerp flagship, I decided to complete the offer with Frédéric Malle’s fragrances. He had recently created his Editions de Parfum, and I appreciated the creative freedom he gave his parfumeurs. Independence is a source of creativity. And Frédéric also wanted to make an olfactory portrait of me, a perfume that smells as intense and spicy as the peppered bread typical of the region where I was born ». In 2022, he launched his own collection with the Puig group.
Fashion experts have interpreted Van Noten’s departure in various ways. Some view it as an act of escapism or exhaustion, while others see it as a prioritisation of personal well-being and mental richness over the relentless demands of the fashion industry. Dries has described gardening as something that gives him a “calm and restorative feeling,” providing a stark contrast to the fast-paced nature of the fashion world. Additionally, perfume serves as a bridge for him, connecting art, creativity and nature, which is so dear to him.
Dries Van Noten’s Unique Approach to Fragrance
Dries first perfume collection immediately seemed very particular. The scents play the card of unexpected encounters. « I asked perfumers to achieve different effects, like when I associate punk and high fashion or grunge with chic. Every fragrance must be an impossible meeting». In Bitter Splash between grapefruit and iris, in Vanille Camouflage between galbanum and bourbon vanilla, in Camomile Satin between chamomile and vanilla… while the couturier describes Crazy Basil as “putting your nose in a pot of basil.”
He describes himself as «not an expert » in fragrances, so when he met the perfumers, « I just accompanied them to my own garden in Antwerp to be inspired. They came across roses, my favourite flowers. But I explained to them that a suave rose scent had also to express a revolutionary side, like an uppercut. The noses understood what direction I wanted to go in ».
The theme of duality is also reflected in the bottles, which are made from different materials. “Creating the habillage of this collection was a challenge. I played with materials: hand-painted porcelain, metal, glass… I contrasted them. The initial reference was that of pharmacy bottles, with the addition of craftsmanship and that sustainable commitment that is dear to me: they are refillable”.
Van Noten redefines luxury by incorporating environmental responsibility. Sustainability has always been a philosophy of life, influencing the haute couture house and, of course, perfumes as well.
The Strong Narrative of Dries Van Noten’s Perfumes
The combination of tradition, innovation and ecological awareness reflects a visionary perspective, making each product not just an object but a meaningful experience for the consumer. “The concentration of a fragrance must guarantee a harmonious evolution on the skin so that it can transmit an alternation of moods, sensations and the pleasure of discovery”. Just like his fashion collections, Van Noten’s perfumes tell a strong story, creating an emotional connection that elevates the sensory experience and achieves a perfect balance.
A New Chapter in Fragrance: What’s Next for Dries Van Noten’s Perfumery Journey?
Without Van Noten at the helm, his house could evolve and explore new creative directions while remaining faithful to its founder’s legacy. His retirement prompts reflection on the concept of success in the fashion industry and its relationship with the public and notoriety.
“My life has changed a lot this year… It’s an exciting time,” says Dries of this career change. We can envision him surrounded by flowers and shrubs, honing his sensibilities and diving into the world of fragrance creation that has long fascinated him. Perfume, as part of his discerning aesthetic lexicon, certainly has a bright future ahead.