
By Giulia Piceni. Cover image courtesy of Highsnobiety / Eva Al Desnudo.
The year 2025 is shaping up to be a capital moment regarding debuts in the fashion industry. Whether these choices will be successful or turn out to be just another flash in the pan remains to be seen. However, the prevailing negativity that has gripped the fashion system for over a year leaves us with little optimism.
The ongoing reshuffling of creative roles and shifts of power among major brands indicate that the industry is struggling to cope with a deepening crisis through abrupt changes in leadership. Unfortunately, this strategy has failed to address both creative and economic shortcomings, and it shows no signs of closing the gaps that have widened in recent months.
In this bleak landscape, bold stylistic choices are often stifled in favour of easily marketable products, making creativity the first casualty. Speculation surrounds leadership changes, such as Hedi Slimane taking over at Gucci, the potential moves of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the fate of Pierpaolo Piccioli, Sarah Burton’s appointment at Givenchy, Micheal Rider at Celine, and even Proenza Shoulder’s creative duo directing Loewe. It’s time to bring some order to this chaos and make cautious predictions about what the future may hold. But beware: don’t get too attached to the creative directions of these designers—decisions from higher-ups can easily disrupt these already fragile balances, and the struggle for power will likely continue. These are challenging times, and we must face this harsh reality.
2025 Fashion Forecast: 5 Key Debuts We Cannot Wait to See
1. Veronica Leoni’s Bold Vision: A Fresh Chapter for Calvin Klein
Veronica Leoni has made a striking impression on the international stage with her bold reinterpretation of Italian sartorial heritage through her brand, Quira. Her vision exudes a captivating sensuality—seductive, mesmerising, and powerful in its soft femininity. In this context, Calvin Klein serves as an ideal platform for experimentation.
The New York brand provided a perfect playground for a creative like Raf Simons, who delivered an intriguing reinterpretation of American heritage by intertwining art and fashion, as well as high and low culture, all with a quintessentially Yankee flair. This approach resonates with Leoni’s sensibility, as both designers share a similar way of exploring their respective heritages.
Leoni’s background at Celine—a brand that has become a badge of honour for many designers, to the point where it’s almost hard to imagine a team large enough to include them all—adds an intriguing Italian twist. This distance from American traditions may provide just the right perspective to navigate the unique cultural context Calvin Klein represents.
We will need to exercise a bit of patience, though; we’ll have to wait until February 7th, when the FW 2025 collection is set to debut, to witness this much-anticipated collaboration come to life.
2. 2025 Fashion Forecast: Could Jonathan Anderson Usher in a New Golden Age for Dior?
Recently, we heard him discuss his past in Ireland during Bella Freud’s latest series, Fashion Psychosis. We’ve also heard countless rumours about Jonathan Anderson, the creative director at Loewe since 2013, possibly taking on a creative role at Dior—rumours that seem increasingly credible.
This speculation feels especially relevant after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest Dior ready-to-wear collection, which many consider one of the weakest in recent years. The collection, intended as a tribute to the Olympics and the world of sports, came across as entirely misplaced and even cartoonish, seemingly designed for high-net-worth clients who might lack a true appreciation for style. In contrast, Jonathan Anderson’s talent appears to be a potential remedy for the chaos that Dior is experiencing.
The reality, however, is that Dior remains one of the fashion system’s most dominant cash cows, even with the leadership of its former co-creative director from Valentino. Yet couture—a domain where Dior typically excels—may not be a natural fit for JW Anderson. His aesthetic is deeply grounded in everyday life, wearability, and experimental normality, which creates a tension between his style and Dior’s legacy.
The pairing of Dior and Anderson is certainly polarising, raising both doubts and hopes among the press and fashion enthusiasts. Could Jonathan Anderson usher in a new golden era for Dior, similar to the transformative impact of Galliano’s tenure? Only time will tell.
3. Louise Trotter’s Sophisticated Minimalism: A New Era for Bottega Veneta
It’s no secret that Louise Trotter has excelled at both Lacoste and Carven. Understatement and discretion are key characteristics of the effortlessly chic style she developed during her tenure at the London-based brand Joseph. Her aesthetic is clearly logo-free, features a restrained colour palette, and embodies a sense of bourgeois elegance. Trotter’s designs highlight clean cuts that convey a minimal sophistication appealing to the fashion audience, especially in this era of ongoing socio-political uncertainty, which is inevitably reflected in the fashion world.
Taking over from Matthieu Blazy, who established an intricate connection between art and fashion during his creative leadership, won’t be an easy task. However, Trotter brings a wealth of experience and an impressive ability to navigate the murky waters of the fashion system. She’s a designer who is unlikely to disappoint.
4. Matthieu Blazy’s Next Big Move: Redefining Chanel’s Legacy
This is a certainty, and we couldn’t be more excited to share the news. Matthieu Blazy, the visionary who has steered Bottega Veneta towards a more definitive direction, is moving on to usher in a new era at Chanel. Under his leadership, Bottega Veneta has evolved from the work of Daniel Lee into a fashion powerhouse infused with artistry.
While Virginie Viard, who worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld for years, has brought continuity to the house, she has struggled to deliver a truly convincing collection during her tenure, whether in ready-to-wear or haute couture. With this new shift in leadership, Matthieu Blazy faces the exciting challenge of haute couture—an art form in which he has already shown a keen interest through initiatives like Bottega for Bottegas and the exceptional craftsmanship behind his designs.
The prospects look promising, and we couldn’t be more thrilled about this reshuffling of creative roles. Chanel, another luxury giant, is in urgent need of someone to help revive its full potential.
5. Haider Ackermann’s Sensual Revolution: The Future of Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann has consistently excelled in balancing seductive allure with structured design. His style is polished yet minimal, even when he incorporates bold prints. In my opinion, Ackermann’s aesthetic would have been a perfect match for the recently retired Dries Van Noten. However, since Van Noten’s brand isn’t looking for a visionary to lead its creative team—as they arguably should—today’s frequent changes in creative directors seem to serve little purpose beyond providing the press with something to write about.
A far better match lies with Tom Ford. If I were to envision a version of Tom Ford under Ackermann’s creative direction, I would revisit his co-ed collection for Jean Paul Gaultier—a masterclass in sensuality. In that collection, Ackermann effortlessly reinterpreted Gaultier’s risqué heritage through his signature refined lines.
Given the sensuality and structural sophistication that define Tom Ford’s aesthetic, Ackermann feels like the perfect candidate to fill the void left by Peter Hawkings, Ford’s former assistant and partner. We couldn’t be more ready for this new chapter.