By Camilla Sarra. Cover image: Tena Lalawat via unsplash.
Choosing a perfume for someone else can be surprisingly difficult. A fragrance is personal, shaped by individual taste and the memories we associate with particular smells. So how do you find one that feels right? With Christmas approaching, I’M Firenze Digest is launching a series of features exploring fragrance brands and the art of choosing a thoughtful gift. Each edition will focus on a different perfume house, introducing its creative approach and offering practical advice for finding a scent that suits the person receiving it. We begin with NISHANE, a niche fragrance brand based in Istanbul.
The Story Behind NISHANE
Taking its name from the Turkish word for a mark, sign or symbol, NISHANE draws inspiration from Istanbul’s layered cultural history. The house treats perfume as a form of storytelling, with collections referencing the poetry of Rumi, traditional Turkish shadow theatre and literature. Its approach is reflected in fragrances such as Hundred Silent Ways, inspired by a verse attributed to Rumi; Hacivat, named after a character from Turkish shadow theatre; and Ani, which takes its name from the medieval city near the Armenian-Turkish border. Each composition offers a different starting point for exploring the relationship between scent and personal taste.
How to Read Fragrance Notes
Before choosing a perfume, it helps to understand how a fragrance is structured. Most compositions are described through three groups of notes, often called the olfactory pyramid.
– Top notes are the first scents you notice after applying a perfume. Citrus, fruit and aromatic ingredients often appear here, creating the initial impression.
– Heart notes emerge as the fragrance develops and help define its central character. Floral and spicy accords are common examples.
– Base notes become more noticeable as the perfume settles on the skin. Woods, musk, vanilla and resins can contribute warmth, depth and persistence.
These categories are useful guides rather than strict rules. A perfume’s development depends on its composition, and the same ingredient can produce different effects depending on what surrounds it. When buying for someone else, consider the fragrances they already enjoy rather than relying only on a description or a list of notes.
Four NISHANE Fragrances, Four Different Profiles
Hundred Silent Ways: For Someone Who Loves Soft Florals
Inspired by the poetry of Rumi, Hundred Silent Ways combines a floral heart with fruity and warm notes. Tuberose, mandarin and peach introduce the composition, followed by white jasmine, gardenia and iris. Vanilla, sandalwood and vetiver form the base. The combination suggests a rounded floral profile with a sweet, creamy finish. It could appeal to someone who already enjoys white flowers and vanilla-based fragrances, particularly if they prefer softness to sharp citrus or strongly aromatic compositions.
Key notes: Tuberose, peach, jasmine, gardenia, vanilla and sandalwood.
Hacivat: For Someone Who Prefers Fresh, Woody Scents
Hacivat takes its inspiration from Turkish shadow theatre. Its opening brings together bergamot, pineapple and grapefruit, creating a distinctly fruity-citrus introduction. Jasmine, patchouli and cedarwood form the heart, while oakmoss and woody accords provide the base. This combination makes Hacivat an interesting option for someone who enjoys a lively opening followed by a more structured woody character. The contrast between pineapple and woods is particularly useful to consider when comparing it with more conventional citrus fragrances.
Key notes: Bergamot, pineapple, grapefruit, cedarwood, patchouli and oakmoss.
Ani: For Someone Drawn to Warm, Spicy Fragrances
Named after the historic city of Ani, near the border between Armenia and Turkey, this fragrance belongs to NISHANE’s No Boundaries collection. Its inspiration also draws on the Anatolian folk song tradition of Sarı Gelin.
Ani opens with bergamot, green notes, ginger and pink pepper. Turkish rose, blackcurrant and cardamom form the heart, while vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, cedarwood, benzoin and musk contribute to its base. Its combination of spices, woods and vanilla makes it a potential choice for someone who prefers warm, layered fragrances. The contrast between the fresh opening and the richer base is central to its character.
Key notes: Ginger, pink pepper, cardamom, Turkish rose, vanilla and sandalwood.
Meant to Be Seen: For Someone Who Enjoys Powdery, Skin-Like Scents
Meant to Be Seen explores the idea of visibility and personal presence. Its composition opens with bergamot and violet, followed by iris butter, moxalone and a civet accord. Sesame, sandalwood, ambrettolide and akigalawood shape the base. The iris and violet introduce a powdery dimension, while sesame and sandalwood add warmth. The musky and woody materials suggest a softer, skin-like finish.
It may interest someone who prefers less obviously fruity fragrances and enjoys compositions built around texture and subtle contrasts.
Key notes: Bergamot, violet, iris butter, sesame, sandalwood and ambrettolide.
What Makes a Perfume a Thoughtful Gift?
Fragrance notes can help narrow down the options, but they cannot predict whether someone will love a perfume. Familiarity matters: someone who regularly wears vanilla fragrances may be more comfortable exploring a new interpretation of that note than receiving an entirely unfamiliar scent profile. It’s also worth remembering that fragrances can smell different on skin than they do on paper. Whenever possible, testing a perfume before buying it is the most reliable way to understand how its notes develop. This Christmas, the most useful question may be less about which fragrance is the most popular and more about what the person you’re buying for actually likes to wear. Sometimes, a familiar note is the best place to begin.
