By Rebecca Ceccatelli. Cover image Setchu courtesy.
Inside Setchu’s Sensory’s World
Hidden behind a beige curtain marked with the brand’s logo—one that visitors must bow to pass under, as an homage to the Japanese greeting—it is precisely here that stood Setchu’s corner at Pitti Fragranze 2025. It was here that designer Satoshi Kuwata, founder of the label and winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, revealed a new chapter of his creative journey.
Known for his meticulous approach—whether tailoring garments or curating the architectural details of an exhibition space—Kuwata has always balanced Eastern and Western influences in his work. After his celebrated runway at the Biblioteca Nazionale during Pitti Uomo 107, where origami-like repetition met institutional tailoring, the designer returned to Florence with something different yet equally ambitious.
This time, at the historic Stazione Leopolda, Kuwata expanded Setchu’s universe into the world of scent, launching five fragrances developed in collaboration with Julie Massé of Mane, one of the most acclaimed noses in artistic perfumery. Each fragrance embodies Setchu’s ethos: a dialogue between cultures, distilled into compositions that are both minimal and deeply evocative.
With this debut, Setchu steps into perfumery with the same sensibility that has defined its fashion—where harmony, contrast, and memory converge to create something timeless and profoundly personal.
Setchu’s Story Told Through Tables and Rituals
From the bow to the little walk to join the core of the stand, crossing the threshold of Setchu’s space at Stazione Leopolda felt less like entering a trade fair and more like stepping into a story.
Each table carried a quiet clue, a fragment of a story. Bowls filled with green tea leaves and toasted rice grains released their soft, nutty warmth. Bright curls of yuzu peel shone like small suns against pale ceramic. Vessels of crystal-clear water suggested the shimmer of a river, while woven tatami mats and bamboo fragments hinted at grounded, earthy intimacy. Smooth blocks of hinoki wood sat beside enamel trays, where gentle steam rose into the air, as if inviting visitors into a bathhouse ritual.
Only after passing through this sensory prologue did the narrative expand, a table dedicated to packaging revealed Setchu’s philosophy in tangible form—minimal, architectural objects that recalled Japanese tea canisters, touched by origami-inspired folds, and shaped with sustainable, refillable materials.
Nearby, a final table unveiled another layer of the brand’s identity: jewelry pieces inspired by the timeless practice of fishing. Hooks, knots, and wave-like curves became delicate sculptures, evoking patience, water, and ritual. These objects, like the fragrances themselves, were meditations on heritage—anchoring the visitor in a world where memory, culture, and craftsmanship converge.
It was not a mere presentation, but an invitation to participate—to smell, to see, to touch, and to imagine. In this setting, the fragrances were already alive before a single drop met the skin.
Setchu’s Olfactory Journey: Five Fragrances, Five Rituals
In fact, the five fragrances are anything but casual. Carefully designed to accompany the wearer through the different phases of the week, each scent becomes a concept in itself—a ritual, a passage. They invite the mind to travel, carried away by vivid oriental accents seamlessly blended with the classic structures of fine perfumery. Together, they form an olfactory journey where everyday moments are elevated into evocative experiences.
Thus were born five distinctive fragrances, each with a story to tell, from their titles down to their accords.
The Week in Fragrance: Setchu’s Scented Rituals
Monday 9 AM | Genmaicha: A Gentle Start to Your Week
Monday 9 AM | Genmaicha is the scent that welcomes you into the very first active hour of the week, guiding you gently toward the rhythm of everyday life: soft, warming green tea blended with the toasted, nutty notes of roasted rice, evoking the sweetness of a slow morning.
Wednesday 5 PM | Yuzu: Midweek Energy and Focus
With a small leap in time, we reach Wednesday 5 PM | Yuzu—the midpoint of the week, bright and energetic. This citrus-forward fragrance, where sharp Japanese yuzu meets the crisp freshness of European cologne, captures that lively, focused moment when the heart of the work week unfolds.
Thursday 1 PM | Ayu: Refreshing Pause and Freedom
Then comes Thursday 1 PM | Ayu. Inspired by the vegetarian river fish, this fragrance conjures watery freshness—cucumber and watermelon—layered with maritime tones and touches of Mediterranean sun. It recalls a pause in the day, a breath of relaxation, and the freedom to dive into personal passions and hobbies.
Friday 2 AM | Tatami: Grounding Comfort After the Night
The journey continues to Friday 2 AM | Tatami. After a night out, all that’s needed is an intimate, grounding embrace: a woody fragrance with peppery accents, echoing the energy of late hours and the earthy, familiar comfort of tatami mats.
Saturday 9 AM | Hinoki Buro: Weekend Detox and Renewal
Finally, we arrive at Saturday 9 AM | Hinoki Buro—a gentle detox, or simply a weekend ritual of rest and renewal. Serene and cleansing, this fragrance merges the resinous calm of hinoki wood baths with the freshness of rising steam, evoking the restorative beauty of a morning reset.
The Journey Continues: Expanding Setchu’s Universe
With the launch of these fragrances, Setchu’s universe continues to expand beyond the boundaries of fashion and scent, weaving together ritual, craft, and imagination. Satoshi Kuwata’s vision shows no signs of slowing—each new venture feels like a deliberate step into uncharted territory. While the world of perfumery has just been claimed, one can imagine future explorations: perhaps new collaborations, unexpected sensory experiences, or immersive installations that further blur the line between Eastern and Western artistry. For Setchu, this is just the beginning of a journey that promises to transform everyday rituals into moments of wonder and beauty.
