By Rosa Smith. Cover image Composition by Alessandro Gori for Pitti Fragranze 2025.
Best of Pitti Fragranze 2025: Key Trends and Highlights in Artistic Perfumery
Pitti Fragranze 2025 takes over Florence from 12 to 14 September, transforming the Stazione Leopolda into a scent-fuelled playground for lovers of niche perfumery. Once a well-kept secret, artistic fragrance has become a full-blown Gen Z obsession and a high-value creative industry that blends culture, craftsmanship, and experimentation. This year’s theme, Composition, draws powerful parallels between perfume and music: both are art forms built on harmony, storytelling, and emotion—where individual elements come together to create something unforgettable. Just like a perfectly composed symphony or a song that stays with you for life, a great fragrance is more than just a product — it’s a moment in time, bottled.
More than 230 brands will exhibit this season — with a striking 74.5% of them from outside Italy — making Pitti Fragranze 2025 not just a showcase, but a truly international dialogue of scent cultures. Among the many innovations of this year’s edition is the debut of SOUL & SKIN, a dedicated space for indie skincare — a highly curated selection of emerging, independent brands pushing the boundaries of what skincare can mean. As the name suggests, this section invites visitors to explore the sensorial intersection of body, beauty and self-awareness.
There’s more: the poetic world of Italian perfumer Meo Fusciuni will be explored not only through scent, but through cinema, with the premiere of a documentary film dedicated to his unique creative journey. Japanese designer SETCHU, a rising star on the international fashion stage, will be the Special Guest of this edition, presenting five new perfumes created in collaboration with master nose Julie Massé.
For those always on the lookout for the next big thing, SPRING is the space to watch: a platform dedicated to emerging fragrance houses making their international debut. While Italy and France still lead in terms of trendsetting power, an exciting new wave of Korean and Spanish perfumes is about to change the game. Here’s a closer look at the most anticipated launches, talents and olfactory trends set to define Pitti Fragranze 2025.
MEO Fusciuni’s Isola and Poetic Documentary
Dark soul, poetic talent, and sensory storyteller Meo Fusciuni—now one of Italy’s most revered noses—returns to Pitti Fragranze with Isola, a fragrance that captures suspended time and the gentle melancholy of summer. He’s also reintroducing his debut scent, #1 Nota di Viaggio – Rites de Passage, renewed with fresh sensitivity. On 12 September at Cinema Teatro La Compagnia in Florence, the documentary Memorie Olfattive, directed by Francesco Spagnuolo, will premiere. This intimate portrait goes beyond creative process to reveal an artist’s fragility, identity, and transformation—from Sicily to Istanbul—enriched with insights from literary and botanical experts and archival footage.
K-Scents Are Booming: The Korean Wave Hits Niche Perfumery
Saranghaeyo: South Korea’s Fragrant Love Letter
Riding Korea’s fragrance wave adored by Gen Z, Saranghaeyo—which means “I love you” in Korean—is the olfactory diary of photographer and entrepreneur Sung S. Kim. Each scent is anchored to a place, year, and story. Understated, precise, and emotionally evocative, the project is distributed by Calé, returning to Pitti with several flagship brands.
Pesade: Korea’s Silent Strength in a Bottle
Among Korea’s most intriguing newcomers, Pesade stands out for its artistic and conceptual approach. Created by founder Mok Youngkyo and artist Kwango Lee, the brand offers a single fragrance embodying inner strength and personal potential. Inspired by the disciplined elegance of dressage—where harmony, grace, and control converge—the scent narrates a journey of discipline and self-awareness, a profound vision of perfume as transformation.
LE PERSONA: South Korea’s Niche Perfume Brand Celebrating Individuality
Le Persona is a South Korean niche fragrance brand that champions the beauty of individuality. Each scent is more than just a perfume, it’s a story, a personality brought to life. From the mysterious elegance of Mystic Rose to the radiant warmth of Golden Gem, the vibrant allure of Peacock Feather, and the earthy depth of Wooden Face, every fragrance is crafted by world-class master perfumers who infuse their art with emotion and meaning. Designed with a refined eye by Calicot Paris, Le Persona’s packaging is as thoughtful and unique as the scents themselves, creating a sensory experience that feels deeply personal. If you’re ready to wear a fragrance that truly speaks your story, Le Persona is your perfect match. Explore the power of scent as self-expression, because your individuality deserves its own signature.
The Art of Scent: Where Ancient Myths Meet Gen Z Poetry
Antinomie: Poetic, Inclusive Perfume
One of the season’s most awaited labels, Antinomie, launched in 2022 by PierreConstantin Guéros and Bertrand Duchaufour, is a poetic and inclusive fragrance house. Loved by young audiences, it celebrates freedom, emotional plurality, and a taste for experimentation. Their new creation, debuting at Fragranze, challenges conventions with originality and accessibility.
Floris London: The Queen’s Perfumer Winning Gen Z Hearts
Born in England in 1730 and still family-owned, Floris is an iconic brand that serves the British royal household—and today, it’s cooler than ever with Gen Z. The historic shop at 89 Jermyn Street in London, once frequented by legends like David Bowie, is a magnet for new generations craving timeless style with a secret rock ’n’ roll soul. At Pitti Fragranze 2025, Floris unveils fresh Grooming line must-haves alongside two stunning new scents: Purple Memories, a bold lavender inspired by family albums, and Golden Ambre, a quintessentially British tribute to Lake Como—both crafted by the talented Italian perfumer Nicola Pozzani. Ready to join the legacy?
Lorenzo Villoresi’s Teti: Aquatic Myth in Fragrance
The master perfumer returns to the Leopolda with a special installation introducing Teti, a fresh addition to the Mare Nostrum collection. Inspired by the mythological nymph of eternal youth and freedom, it evokes water, flowers, and unseen fruits. Villoresi will also open his Florence perfume house and Scent Museum on Via de’ Bardi 12, offering botanical insights and educational tours.
Comporta Perfumes: Portugal’s Boho-Chic Artistic Fragrance Brand
At Pitti Fragranze 2025, don’t miss Comporta Perfumes, Portugal’s first artistic scent brand that vibes with boho-chic coastal energy. Every fragrance drops you right into dreamy landscapes and memories, crafted by legendary noses like Bertrand Duchaufour and rising stars. The “Master & Apprentice” line is pure magic: old-school pros teaming up with fresh talent, wrapped in bottles that are both artisanal and sleek. Ready to smell your next obsession?
Frassaï: Argentina’s First Female Artistic Perfumer Crafting Sophisticated Slow Fragrances
Founded in 2013 by Natalia Outeda, the first woman to create an artistic perfumery brand in Argentina, Frassaï has a captivating story. The brand was born from Natalia’s return to her hometown, Buenos Aires, after a serendipitous start in 2005 in New York, where she worked for Quest International (now part of Givaudan), one of the biggest fragrance companies in the world.Frassaï stands out for its “slow perfumery” approach, offering sophisticated and complex scents inspired by Argentina’s culture, landscapes, and people—as well as dance, music, painting, and travel, all reflecting the founder’s passion.Frassaï fragrances invite you on an olfactory journey that awakens the senses and the soul, evoking personal memories and Latin American atmospheres. For example, Verano Porteño is inspired by Buenos Aires and Astor Piazzolla’s tango, while Teisenddu recalls the Welsh cake tradition of Patagonia connected to Natalia’s family history. The latest creation, Ajedrez, refers to the game of chess loved by her grandfather.
SCENTESCAPE: Artistic Olfactory Installations
In the Alcatraz space, Essenses presents SCENTESCAPE, an artistic exhibition featuring debut fragrance houses: D:Sol, Berlin-born and Mallorca-inspired, capturing warmth, light, and deep emotional resonance and L’Entropiste, created by Bertrand Duchaufour, a brand that deconstructs raw materials into chaotic harmony, forming scent as alchemical expression.
Kaon’s Fragrance Vision: Where Tradition Meets Next-Gen Perfumery
At Pitti Fragranze 2025, Kaon showcases a dynamic and ever-evolving fragrance portfolio that bridges established maisons and bold newcomers. A key player in the world of artistic perfume distribution, Kaon brings to the Stazione Leopolda a curated selection of its most distinctive brands, all ready to unveil their latest olfactory creations. Among them, two standouts impress with their innovative spirit and contemporary vision.
27_87 Perfumes: Bold Barcelona Scents That Break All the Rules
Founded in Barcelona, this house is a manifesto of creative freedom and experimentation. Named after the sizes in which its scents are bottled (27ml and 87ml), 27_87 breaks traditional perfumery rules, crafting fragrances in collaboration with some of the boldest, most visionary noses in the industry. The result? A collection that blends modern sensibility, artisanal precision, and unmistakable identity.
Sabé Masson: Parisian Perfume That Loves Your Skin
Where fragrance meets skincare. This Parisian brand redefines the ritual of perfuming through alcohol-free, skin-friendly formulas enriched with natural and vegan ingredients. From the iconic Parfum de Soin to its solid scent sticks, each product is designed not only to deliver refined fragrance but also to care for the skin—marrying sensorial beauty with eco-conscious innovation.
Tombstone Fragrances: The Scent of Eternity
For lovers of gothic style, dark aesthetics, and Tim Burton films, Tombstone Fragrances is a must-discover. As its name suggests, this unique concept draws inspiration from gravestones—transforming life’s transience into elegant homages to the temporality of existence. Each scent tells a story of impermanence and rebirth, captured in sculptural tombstone-shaped flacons—miniature handcrafted memorials from China, designed to last. These tactile “mini-graves” embody the fading nature of fragrance itself—fleeting in the air, but held in form. A poetic fusion of aesthetics, philosophy, and memory, making each bottle a small olfactory monument to fragility and eternity.
Release Brings Bold New Fragrance Stories to Fragranze 2025
Back at Leopolda Station, Release is turning heads with a killer lineup of brands that mix creative vibes, eco-conscious values, and artisanal magic. This year, two fresh faces make their grand entrance, each bringing their own unique story and style that you need to experience. Ready to discover scents that break the mold?
Maie Piou: Where East Meets Freedom in Genderless Scents
Meet Maie Piou, the brainchild of Jean-Charles Sommerard (yes, the 100Bon founder). Imagine a little bird taking flight: light, free, and unbound. That’s the vibe here. Their debut collection, Ambrogyne, is pure poetry: five natural, genderless perfumes that celebrate sensual mystery and the magic of self-expression. If you’re craving a scent that feels like your secret language, this is it. Try it, wear it, own it.
Ånd Fragrance: Deep Forest Vibes and Real Impact
Created by ethical powerhouse Simon Constantine, Ånd Fragrance isn’t just about smelling amazing—it’s about doing good. Their intense scent, Båre, channels the raw energy of Canada’s mystical Great Bear Forest. But here’s the real story: every bottle supports indigenous communities through honest, transparent sourcing. It’s perfumery with a purpose. Ready to wear something that tells a story bigger than you?
Campomarzio70: Turn Everyday Moments into Scented Memories
Campomarzio70 is flipping the script on fragrance with The Essential Blend, a collection inspired by your “places of the heart.” Each scent is a secret address, a memory, a feeling bottled up just for you. This isn’t just perfume, it’s a journey through the moments that make you you.
Campomarzio70 Hand & Body: Your New Self-Care Ritual, Elevated
Introducing the Hand & Body Collection: skincare that’s more than just a routine. Crafted with natural ingredients and wrapped in sleek, sustainable amber bottles, these formulas hydrate deeply while keeping your vibe fresh. It’s the perfect mix of self-love, style, and planet-friendly goodness. Time to turn your daily care into a ritual you actually look forward to.
AMOLN: Luxury Scandinavian Candles Debut at Pitti Fragranze
Among the exciting new entries, there’s AMOLN, straight from Malmö, Sweden, where the mystery of clouds takes shape in total blue vibes, blending master craftsmanship with memories, top-tier ingredients, and sleek Scandinavian design. Since 2022, Amoln has been the scent behind candles in Swedish Royal Palaces. Making its exclusive debut at Pitti Fragranze, Amoln unveils five fresh collections crafted by some of France’s most talented noses. The bottles? Designed by artist Michael Elmgreen, they’re little works of art in themselves. Ready to dive into a world where art, heritage, and scent collide?
SPRING 2025: Top Emerging Perfume Brands to Watch
SPRING is where emerging niche talents debut on the global stage: raw, visionary, and rule-breaking. It’s curated for trailblazers and early adopters, showcasing clean beauty, conceptual storytelling, and gender-neutral perfumery. Notable participants include Atelier Vesper, Carl Kling Parfums, Ephemeral Dyadic, Gianluca Gariboldi, Notefluide, Organ Tale Parfums, and more.
SETCHU by Satoshi Kuwata Debuts at Pitti Fragranze 2025
Japanese designer and LVMH Young Designer prize-winner Satoshi Kuwata (SETCHU) debuts his sensory perfume collection at Fragranze. In collaboration with nose Julie Massé, he presents five genderless scents symbolising daily rituals and childhood memories. Installations at the Leopolda will introduce this East-West creative dialogue.
FRAGRANCE TALKS: Where Perfumes and Skincare Speak Honestly
Pitti Fragranze also offers an exciting stage for talks, a space for dialogue, deep dives, and debate, where we at Istituto Marangoni Firenze will also be present!
Istituto Marangoni Presents: The Perfume Storytellers
Yes, we are here too! Behind every fragrance, there’s a story waiting to be told. At Pitti Fragranze 2025, we explore the new creative roles that turn emotions into words and images—from artistic naming to scent editing. These creatives are the storytellers of tomorrow’s beauty world, speaking to new generations with authenticity and imagination. Join us Friday, September 12th at 5 PM to discover how fragrance stories come to life.
Indie Skincare Brands: The Unstoppable Phenomenon
According to Nielsen, indie skincare brands are growing faster than the traditional beauty market in 2023. How did they do it? What’s their secret formula for winning loyal fans and outshining the big names? Journalists Paola Gariboldi and Susanna Macchia discuss this with Paola Malaspina from Beautyaholics, along with Eleonora Pratelli of Perennae and Matteo Sgarbossa of Hobepergh. Spoiler alert: it’s all about authenticity, sustainability, and real connection with the audience.
Fragrance Houses 2.0: Perfumes with a New Identity
Today’s emerging perfume brands aren’t just “young” or “indie”—they’ve changed the game by breaking the rules and bringing fresh energy to a mature market. Paola and Susanna gather insights from insiders like Laura Tonatto (Essenzialmente Laura), Quentin Dorado (SoraDora), and Antonio Cristaudo (Pitti Immagine), who have lived this transformation firsthand. The result? A journey through creativity, innovation, and new scent languages.
FASHION & FRAGRANCES: Wearing the Future
Fashion and fragrance meet—and together, they rewrite tomorrow. What happens when two creative languages like fashion and perfumery truly start to speak to each other? Something emerges that’s not just beautiful or scented—it becomes culture, identity, and vision. This is the idea behind “FASHION & FRAGRANCES: WEARING THE FUTURE,” the project with which MANE opens the 2025 edition of Pitti Fragranze. It’s a sensory experience that goes beyond the surface, exploring deep connections between fabrics, shapes, emotions, and fragrant molecules.
On Friday, September 12th at 11 in Stazione Leopolda, a talk promises to be one of the most visionary moments of the fair. MANE will explore fragrance as the invisible extension of design. Just like an outfit tells your story before you speak, so does the trail you leave behind. And it’s not just about style: sustainability, material innovation, and new creative frontiers are part of the conversation. Fragrant ingredients become true “emotional fabrics,” bridging ethics and aesthetics.
