By Silvia Manzoni.

To uncover the treasures at the Puces de Saint-Ouen, follow the guidance of Australian writer and journalist Kate Van den Boogert, who has dedicated a book that pulls back the curtain on this remarkable place. The Paris Flea Market (Prestel Publishing, with photography by Toby Glanville) immerses readers in the history of decorative arts, design trends, vintage fashion, and the unique atmosphere that flows through the 11 markets “that function like a collection of tiny neighbourhoods, each with its own history and identity,” as Kate notes.
According to antiques dealer Max Keys, there is no other place in the world that boasts such a wide and interesting range of art, design, and fashion objects with a retro spirit, especially since Portobello in London has been overrun by Starbucks and clothing stores. “I feel really proud to be here, and I’ve been incredibly welcomed. It’s one of the best places on the planet for antiques. I find it quite astonishing that it exists, actually. I just don’t even think you could come close to recreating that now; I don’t see that it would ever be possible to do it elsewhere,” says Keys to the author.

Paris Flea Market: The Puces’ Society

“The Puces is nothing other than a totally successful mini, organic city where humans trade with culture, intelligence, spirit, and friendship. It is a nano-prototype of the memory of a forgotten society that could once again become an inspiring model. For as long as I can remember, I have dreamed of having a stand there…” says designer Philippe Starck, who is in love with the spot.

Kate Van den Boogert’s book is not a “best of,” but it does provide valuable insights into stores worth stopping by and browsing. For fashion aficionados, for example, a must-see is Maxime de Laurentis’ store, which is described as follows: “Since 2011, I have had a stand at the Paul Bert market, where I sell vintage clothes and accessories. Here, I represent designers from the 80s, 90s, and 2000s who can be described as ‘avant-garde’ or ‘minimalist’: Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Junya Watanabe.”

How to Shop Like a Local: The Art of “Chiner” at Paris’ Flea Market

The top rule for a day at the Paris Flea Market can be captured by an untranslatable verb that Parisians and fans of the place often use: chiner. That means to browse the stalls of antique and vintage objects and furniture without a specific purpose, with an open mind. This approach is the only way to make the best discoveries. The treasures are waiting just beyond the reach of the curious.

Spot Celebrities Like Pharrell and Jacquemus While Looking for Inspiration

Famous designers, architects, and even fashion stars come to the Saint-Ouen Flea Market in search of inspiration and unique objets d’art. You might even run into personalities like Pharrell Williams or Jacquemus, who once brought his friend Dua Lipa along. It’s this mix of people that makes this place truly special and different from others. Just a warning from the experts: steer clear of the stalls on the outer perimeter, as they often sell branded bags and sweaters that are absolutely fake.

The Best Finds at the Paris Flea Market: Where to Shop

Here are some tips to help you prepare for your visit, as well as recommendations for where to eat at lunchtime, especially at the restaurants that cater to connoisseurs.

Antiques and Decoration

Albert and Roxane Rodriguez, 15 rue Jules Vallès
Specialising in antiques from the nineteenth century, as well as items from the eighteenth and seventeenth centuries. They also have a diverse selection of Art Nouveau and Art Deco.

Eva Steinitz, Marché Paul Bert, Alley 1, Stand 23
Art Deco, Art Nouveau. Everything around 1900.

Bernard Tinivella, Marché Paul Bert, Allée 3, Stand 48
Offering artefacts from ancient Rome and neoclassical pieces from the late eighteenth to early nineteenth centuries.

Modern Design and Furniture

Valérie Bouvier & Antoine Nouvet, Marché Paul Bert, Allée 6, Stand 91
Specialties: 80s design; they love setting up their stand and changing the decor and colour scheme.

François-Xavier Courrèges, Marché Paul Bert, Allée 1, Stand 108
Specialties: design objects from the 1980s to 2000, mainly Italian and French items, with a particular focus on the works of Gaetano Pesce, contrasting them with the minimalist style of Belgian designer Maarten Van Severen. Additionally, the vendor offers older pieces, including lighting designed by Gino Sarfatti or André Cazenave, alongside contemporary pieces.

Nathalie Dupuis, Marché Paul Bert, Allée 1, Stand 73
Specialties: Furniture from the 1950s to the 1980s, as well as ‘art ceramics’, from the 1950s to the present day.

Hugo Greniner, Allée 6, Stands 4&5
Specialties: Surrealism and abstract art in painting, historical Modern sculpture from 1920 to 1980, and iconic American and European furniture. Also offers Italian and Finnish glassware, as well as rare light fixtures.

Aurélien Serre, Marché Serpette, Allée 1, Stand 37
Specialties: Design pieces from the 60s and 70s.

Dominique James, Marché Vernaison Alley 1, Stands 49–51
Specialties: Eighteenth-century furniture.

Contemporary, Avant-Garde, and Vintage Fashion

Maxime de Laurentis, Marché Paul Bert, Allée 1, Stands 112 & 114
Since 2011, he has been selling vintage clothing and accessories. He represents designers from the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s who can be described as avant-garde or minimalist. These include  Yohji Yamamoto, Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, and Junya Watanabe.

Françoise and Erwan de Flingué, Marché Dauphine, Stands 254–6 & 284–5
Specialties: Vintage and antique costumes, like Vionnet, Madame Grès, and Jacques Fath.

Folk Art and Traditions, Regional Art

Samuel Collin, Marché Jules Vallès, Stand 21
Specialties: Folk art and traditions, specifically pre-twentieth-century folk pottery, including terrines, surname jugs, anthropomorphic roof finials, and glazed kitchen water fountains, as well as unusual pieces.

Where to Eat and Drink While You Shop

At La Péricole, 16 rue du Plaisir, 93400 Saint-Ouen
“Dany, the owner, has been here since 1999. The café is at the heart of the Puces, next to the L’Usine and Jules-Vallès markets. These markets, as well as the streets rue Jules Vallès and rue Paul-Bert, are particularly active on Thursdays and Fridays, with a focus on sales between dealers and professionals. A lot of chineurs meet at La Péricole in the morning to have coffee and discuss what they’ve bought and seen. It’s where people meet to do business, too. Everyone knows each other there,” writes Kate.

Why Not Enjoy a Live Jazz Concert?

Visit La Chope des Puces (122 rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen). It’s a Mecca for Jazz Manouche lovers, where Django Reinhardt once performed. This legendary bistro offers high-quality traditional cuisine in an authentic setting adorned with guitars that once belonged to the great names of jazz. You can enjoy live jazz performances while dining, with concerts taking place on Saturday and Sunday from 2 to 5 pm. The spacious hall is decorated in a fairground style, featuring pieces from the early twentieth century. Additionally, this venue serves as a jazz school.