Chappell Roan really brought Medieval Fashion up to everybody’s attention 

Rising star Chappell Roan recently delivered an unforgettable performance at the MVAs. Dressed in armour, she set a fictional castle on fire while engaging in a dance battle with male dancers. The internet quickly erupted as a 21st-century crusader, accusing of glamorising Joan of Arc, a child saint. However, keen observers and attentive lyrics listeners caught the deeper reference to Julie d’Aubigny: an 18th-century French opera singer and bisexual cross-dresser. Famed for her swordsmanship, d’Aubigny fearlessly challenged her lovers’ husbands to fencing duels, fighting for the women she desired.

Though the reference was from a later era than the Middle Ages, the performance’s medieval flair led to confusion with Joan of Arc. The historical references didn’t stop there. On the red carpet, Roan stunned in a sheer Y/Project dress, thigh-high knight boots, and a face painted like a spectral Renaissance figure. Despite the playful blending of eras by Roan and her makeup team, the obsession with mediaeval aesthetics, which had been creeping into social media feeds and collections, was now made official.

TikTok’s Weird Girl Aesthetic Takes a Medieval Fashion Turn

Welcome to the new weird-girl trend taking a medieval turn, featuring velvet, faux fur, layered silhouettes (in full weird-girl style), cloaks, bonnets, dark hues, and tapestry-like prints. TikTok creators have already embraced this vibe, pairing Chopova-Lowena skirts with DIY chainmail headpieces and medieval-inspired print t-shirts. The trend has even extended to Halloween, with Joan of Arc costumes inspired by Chloë Sevigny’s iconic look. Whether praised or criticised, this costume is set to dominate trick-or-treating this year, solidifying the rise of medieval fashion.

Dark and Feminist: Why Medieval Aesthetics Speak to Gen Z

In a broader sense, today’s creatives, whether singers or designers, often embrace a medieval aesthetic when featuring strong female figures. A prime example is Dilara Findikoglu, whose runway collections depict women who are fully aware of their seductive power, exuding an air of danger. Her designs, evocative of Alexander McQueen’s dark allure, blend elements of witches and vampires, creatures of the night and ancient nymphs, blending 20th-century styles from bondage to burlesque with the whimsical feel of the Middle Ages revival. This subversive archetype, often donning armour-like elements, resonates with younger audiences seeking a dark, feminist, and feral heroine. It represents the perfect synthesis of our contemporary new Dark Age, where fierce, unapologetic heroines reign supreme.

The Subtle Hints: How Medieval Influences Creeped into Fashion

In recent years, there have been numerous indications of a possible resurgence of medieval influences in fashion. The first notable signal came from Balenciaga’s innovative vision with its armour boots. Though they quickly became meme material, those boots encapsulate the essence of the current era: a time when nostalgia for periods we’ve never experienced blends with disillusionment with the present and an increasingly hyper-technological future.

More recently, the FW 2024 Jil Sander runway showcased a minimalist, medieval-inspired bonnet made from rigid wool. Its austere design evoked not just medieval simplicity but also hinted at the strictness of religious orders. This rediscovery of headpieces may also be traced back to the influence of recent cinematic costume design, like the intricate Princess Irulan headpieces from Dune.
This past summer saw the rise of bubble skirts and bloomers, drawing inspiration from the short trousers worn during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Meanwhile, pointy shoes, often associated with witches or jokers, have also made a comeback. A standout example is the viral Melissa x Y/Project kitten heels, which playfully reference this whimsical heritage.

Do you recall the fleeting trend of colourful pantyhose, especially in bold red? It seemed like everyone wanted to embody a medieval court jester. Additionally, you may have noticed Hodakova’s striking armour-like spoon corset worn by Cate Blanchett at the Los Angeles Premiere of Borderlands or the metallic corset donned by Rosalía for Vogue+. Both pieces are by Swedish designer Hodakova, the winner of the 2024 LVMH Prize. A graduate of the Swedish School of Design, she is redefining fashion with her ingenious and strictly upcycled creations, already worn by stars. Let’s also not forget the brick-red cloak that model Colin Jones wore at the latest Ferragamo show: total Gandalf style, but make it ballet.

What Does It Mean When the Middle Ages Become a Trend?

It’s important to consider that when we discuss the medieval revival, we are often referring to a reinterpretation that has been passed down through the centuries. As a result, the elements featured in this trend are rarely historically accurate but rather embellished and glamourised. The influence of the Middle Ages on fashion is more significant than we tend to think. Even the Renaissance, a period known for moving away from those dark times, experienced its own medieval revival in fashion, with elements that nostalgically harked back to the era of chivalry and duels.

It was in the latter half of the 19th century that a more significant medieval revival occurred. Druidic naturalism and mediaeval feudalism captivated the Victorians, who were grappling with the Industrial Revolution and its impact. This interest in the old ways led to the rise of the Arts & Crafts movement, spearheaded by William Morris. This movement promoted a pastoral way of life, along with a decorative style that later inspired the Art Nouveau movement, featuring nymphs and fairies reminiscent of Celtic legends.
Another well-known revival occurred more recently, during the 1960s and 70s, when the pacifist artists criticising the Vietnam War became modern psychedelic troubadours, incorporating references to a mediaeval time in both sound and style.

Pandemic, war and obscurantism: the same (very) old story

Amidst an ongoing genocide, wars that devastate entire populations, the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic and the rise of right-wing political groups with their retrogressive views, it doesn’t seem too paradoxical to feel a connection with those distant people who endured plagues, wars and the Church’s obscurantism. 
In a way, it’s intriguing to note how Frank Herbert, in his Dune series, anticipated this resurgence. The books reference feudal noble houses, sword fights, the Mentats being a version of scribes, princesses to rescue, and elements of druid-like magic, particularly with the Fremens, all set against a futuristic steampunk backdrop.
Fashion and culture serve as reflections of our times, and the recent fascination with the Middle Ages suggests a longing for something different among younger generations. It seems like everything is falling apart as we look from the past to the future. Dressing up or adopting mediaeval aesthetics isn’t about romanticising a grim period in history but rather a way to express its complexity, which is reflected in our current reality. The solution to our discouraging present feels out of reach, and escaping through art, fashion, or behaviour has become the simplest way to both protest and seek relief from the challenges of modern life.