By Silvia Manzoni.

Perfumes serve many purposes – they help us exorcize death, transport us to the African savannahs like Karen Blixen in Out of Africa, create a comforting bubble of strawberry chewing gum, commemorate historical events like the taking of the Bastille or simply allow us to relive a moment of transgression. The possibilities are endless. Perfume is constantly evolving, projecting its scent into very different universes. Olfactory creation has become a playground where new identities are invented, where we can feel free and where dreams take flight, as demonstrated by the 2024 edition of Esxence, the fair of artistic perfumery, recently concluded in Milan, with 360 brands showcasing their latest offerings from all over the world. The title of the fair was “Metamorphosis”, which celebrated the hybridisation that animates today’s olfactory trends, straddling ancient reminiscences and a desire for unexplored horizons.
Feeling in a California dreaming mood? Head over to Olfactive Studio and check out their new trio of fragrances inspired by photographs of tanned girls with windblown hair under the LA sun. They are the inspiration behind Huggs Mauve, fresh and gourmand, Loving Sense, which is spicy, and the more intense Sister Oud. To stick to the topic of travel, imagine the breathtaking landscapes of the savannah, with Mount Kilimanjaro towering over the blue sky, and around you, a hint of exoticism in the air. The brand Reserve en Afrique sources all of its ingredients from Africa with a keen focus on their quality and the skilled hands of the suppliers who nurture them. The brand has four fragrances to offer: Afrique en Fleurs, Eau Légendaire, Feu Sacré, Aube Lumineuse.

Sikelia shares Sicilian legends through fragrances, from the scent of the sea breeze (Nikos) and of Mount Etna (Atma) created using the olfactive note of volcanic lava, with a smoky accord. Fans of this unique scent can also try 14 Juillet, a fragrance from the French brand Bastille, known for being transparent about its ingredients. 14 Juillet releases an enigmatic amber-smoky scent and a fireworks accord to celebrate France’s national holiday.
Fragrances that come from afar include those of two Korean perfume houses, Sisology and Born to Stand Out. The first one is designed to “capture the special moments in everyday life through scent” with 5 fragrances that are like instant photographs of our daily lives. The second one is an edgy, provocative, creative brand that promises to offer unprecedented emotions with its juices.

Would you wear a Church-scented perfume? This is one of most disruptive perfume trends for 2024

Feeling saintly? Artist Filippo Sorcinelli has created a fragrance collection called Extrait de Sacristie, which comes in sculptural bottles adorned with a huge blessing hand. It is inspired by the sacristy environments of some famous churches, such as those of St. Peter’s, in Rome, St. Marc in Venice or Notre Dame de Paris. However, the same brand also offers the XSE collection, or “extract of perversion,” which is focused on sexuality and comes in roll-ons. Its fifth chapter, called Quickie and Coffee, tells the story of an unexpected encounter in a gas station bathroom. 

Perfume trends 2024: indulge into the fragrance secret stolen from Cleopatra

With the Dutch brand Fugazzi, which will soon open its first boutique in Amsterdam, we all feel like modern Cleopatras. The founder, Bram, has studied the use of scented oils in Ancient Egypt and is convinced that the mythical queen of Egypt, Cleopatra, won the heart of Caesar with her perfume. Their latest fragrance, Angel Dust, is a warm and comforting scent reminiscent of a soft cashmere blanket with hints of amber and spices. It’s perfect for anyone who loves to wrap themselves in a cozy aroma.

Choose the star, discover your perfume

Are you fond of astronomy? The Italian brand Astra has an artistic project that draws a comparison between stars and perfumes. Both perfume and stars are present even without being visible. Also, they both appear to be stationary yet they are continuously evolving, like Wega, the brightest star in the constellation of Lyra, which shines with its blue-white hue during summer nights. Astra offers you the opportunity to choose your star from a range of options, including Betelgeuse, Antares, Mismar, Tistar, and Wega.

The new daring bouquets for Gen Z are one of delicious perfume trends of 2024

A young brand called Emil Elise has made its debut with a collection targeting Gen Z. Two of their popular fragrances include Going Bang, a powerful blend of incense, spices, vetiver, and patchouli, and Dancing on Goosebumps, which has a more sparkling tone. Another brand that is popular among young people is Bel Rebel, a London-based brand with colourful upcycled packaging describes itself as “created in a rebel city by a rebel person with a rebel team”. Their best seller is Bubble Gum, which comes in a Barbie-style pink bottle and has a sweet note of American strawberry gum.

Olfactory notes tuned to emotions

If you’re looking for a perfume that resonates with your mood, look no further than Edeniste. This brand has collaborated with leading neuroscientists to identify the olfactory molecules that have an impact on the limbic system and emotions. Here’s how it works: choose a base from one of their seven unisex Eaux de Parfum, created by master perfumers from Takasago. Each base contains a patented “destress” accord that has an olfactory effect. Then, pair it with Lifeboost® to enhance its impact.

 The most spiritual perfume trends 2024 is a scent of the beyond

Let’s end this tour with a trip… to the afterlife. Or rather, to the boundaries of the cemetery universe, as evoked by Tombstone. Their fragrances aim to “empower individuals by reminding them that death is a natural part of the human experience”. The perfumes come in bottles that resemble gravestones, and have names like Sweet Coffin (with an accord evoking an old wooden coffin), No Need to Come by, His Lodship’s Backyard Roses, Sing at my Funeral, 3 Feet 5. To emphasise the brand’s philosophy, Esxence set up a booth with a full-sized, standing coffin lined with black velvet where visitors could take photos.