Sustainability: How Smaller Brands Can Make a Difference

Elena-Muserra-Sustainability-How-Smaller-Brands-Can-Make-a-Difference

PRs may be a ubiquitous driving force in the fashion industry, but have you ever heard of a sustainable one? Get ready to be surprised by Elena Muserra’s experience and her knowledge of environmentally conscious topics

Elena-Muserra-Sustainability-How-Smaller-Brands-Can-Make-a-Difference

23/02/2024

By Giulia Piceni. Cover image by Zhang Chengtianyi for I’M Firenze Digest.

“Look at this duvet jacket. Can you see here on the side of the sleeve? 70 PET plastic bottles were used to create it, making it one metre of Ecoalf fabric. Sensational, right?” 

Elena Muserra is a woman who lives by the principles she professes in the workplace; she’s a sustainable PR, as she likes to define herself. In the business they are referred to as sustainability makers. Her commitment to the environment is evident through the screen during our Zoom interview. 

As one of sustainable makers Elena is working hard to create a much more eco-friendly world. In this interview, she shares insights into sustainability and the green-approved brand she represents, Ecoalf.
The Q&A that follows sheds light on the challenges that a relatively small brand with a focus on quality, craftsmanship and an environmentally-conscious ethos faces on its journey towards greener production. 

Elena Muserra De Luca, photo: Agnese Morganti.

Let’s start with the macro topic of this interview: sustainability. When did you first become interested in it, and when did you realise it was your calling as one of sustainability makers tribe?

I understood that sustainability was going to be my main area of interest in 2016 when I met Javier Goyeneche, the founder of Ecoalf. I got in touch with his brand because they were looking for a sustainability expert. I leveraged my previous experience at Save the Duck, and I was eventually selected for the role. I joined the PR office in Milan. Nevertheless, it was officially during that year’s edition of Pitti Uomo that I met Javier.
I remembered that we had previously crossed paths at a mutual friend’s wedding; many would think it was just a coincidence, but for me, it felt like a sign that we were meant to meet. From the very beginning, we shared the same language and understood each other well. I was very lucky to have had this encounter because it truly opened my eyes to the world of sustainability. 

What are the new frontiers of sustainability regarding fashion and design, and what are the biggest challenges in terms of production?   

I’ll give you a well-known example: recycled nylon is now a common material, but when I started in 2016, it was not widely used. My goal then and now is to push the limits of chemistry and sustainability to create new fabrics and materials that bring added value to the garment they become a part of. However, the biggest challenge remains educating consumers about sustainability. To give you some insight, WGSN conducted research and found that people prioritise price over design and sustainability. Therefore, it’s really the mindset that has to be aligned with the needs of our environment. 

Besides using sustainable materials, how can a garment combine functionality and fashion trends? 

It is absolutely possible and not as hard as many may think. Back in 2016, when I started, recycled wool was so rough that you could scrub your face with it, but now it is almost impossible to distinguish it from a new fibre. As a matter of fact, I strongly believe that even big companies could and should work with sustainable fabrics, but the problem remains the same: the margin and, consequently, the price.
Especially on such high levels, customers don’t want to spend money on something that is not visible. Even an average customer may question why they should pay 40€ for a white shirt made of recycled cotton when they can purchase multiple of those for a much lower price. Next time you’re faced with this fast-fashion riddle, remember that with a basic shirt, the waste can go up to 220 litres of water. Think about it. 

Ecoalf is engaged in very interesting projects such as Upcycling the Ocean and the non-profit organisation Fundación Ecoalf. Would you like to give us some insight into them? 

There is a quite interesting story behind it. In 2015, Javier went out fishing with a fisherman near Alicante, and he saw an enormous quantity of trash in the nets. That sparked his interest in starting the UTO (Upcycling the Ocean) project. Now active in Spain, France, Greece and even Italy, the project is actively supported by the famous supermarket Conad in Italy.
Furthermore, half of the project is funded by the Fundación Ecoalf through private investors while also receiving support from the millionaire Harry Hoppe, a friend of Javier. On the other side, the fishermen who collect the garbage are not paid as it’s a discharge that they would otherwise throw away. After fishing both fish and garbage, they reach the shore and give what they’ve found to a waste management company that separates the materials and makes them useable for the creation of threads and polymers that are suitable for clothing production. 

As one of today sustainability makers what should be the social responsibility of companies towards promoting sustainability?

I’ve always believed that sustainability is much more than being environmentally friendly. It’s not enough to do a recycled capsule collection for a brand to claim sustainability. Today, what we need is a sense of social responsibility along with a green approach. This gentle revolution starts in the workplace where, even during harsh times of cuts, the individual should be respected; it takes place when a worker is able to lead a good life even outside of their job.
The focus could even be to make less money as a company but to ensure an amazing result in terms of product and a great working experience for all of those who are part of that reality. We must take one step at a time, reconnecting with nature and our truer selves. 

Fields of Study
Fashion Business

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