By Mila Johanna Papini. Cover image by…
When did basil become so much more than the main ingredient in pesto? That unmistakable green leaf, long associated with Italian kitchens and summer lunches, is finding new life in perfumes, experimental desserts and contemporary skincare. Its fresh, slightly peppery aroma feels instantly familiar, yet its versatility is inspiring unexpected interpretations. From centuries-old culinary traditions to the growing fascination with botanical ingredients, basil has a surprisingly rich story to tell. Here’s why this everyday herb deserves a closer look.
Before Pesto Went Global: The Surprising History of Basil
Pesto may be one of Italy’s most recognisable culinary creations, but the tradition behind it goes back much further than the pasta dishes we know today. Ancient Romans prepared herb-based mixtures using a mortar, including moretum, a preparation combining herbs, cheese and other ingredients. Medieval Liguria also had a tradition of garlic-based sauces, such as agliata, often discussed as predecessors of modern pesto. The Genoese recipe began taking its recognisable form during the nineteenth century and appeared in Giovanni Battista Ratto’s La Cuciniera Genovese, published in 1863. Interestingly, the recipe included Dutch cheese alongside Italian varieties, reflecting Genoa’s commercial connections with northern Europe. Over time, basil became the defining ingredient, particularly the fragrant varieties cultivated in Liguria. Today, Basilico Genovese DOP represents the close relationship between the plant and its territory. What began as a regional preparation has become an international symbol of Italian food culture, carrying centuries of culinary tradition into kitchens around the world.
Would You Wear Basil? The Rise of Green Perfumes
Basil has a surprisingly complex aromatic personality. Depending on the variety, its scent can range from fresh and slightly sweet to peppery, spicy or subtly anise-like. This versatility makes it particularly interesting in perfumery, where green notes are gaining attention as an alternative to familiar vanilla and caramel fragrances. One example is Intenso di Basilico, created in 2025 by perfumer Luca Maffei for the Capri-based house Carthusia. Basil meets tea leaves and jasmine, while bergamot and mandarin bring brightness and vetiver adds earthy depth. The fragrance received the 2026 Accademia del Profumo Award for Best Made in Italy Men’s Fragrance, presented at Milan’s Teatro alla Scala on 20 September. Its recognition reflects the creative possibilities of an ingredient more commonly associated with cooking. Alongside tomato leaf and other herbal notes, basil is helping to expand the idea of what a contemporary fragrance can smell like: greener, less predictable and closely connected to the natural world.
Beyond the Pasta Plate: Basil’s Unexpected Food Makeover
Pesto is only the beginning of basil’s culinary possibilities. Its fresh, aromatic character works in unexpected combinations, particularly when paired with fruit or creamy textures. Chefs and bartenders use the herb to introduce a green, slightly peppery contrast to desserts and drinks, from strawberry-and-basil combinations to refreshing cocktails. One particularly intriguing example is basil gelato, where the herb’s distinctive freshness offers an alternative to traditional sweet flavours. In Corniglia, in the Cinque Terre, Alberto Gelateria is known for its basil-flavoured gelato, demonstrating how a familiar regional ingredient can take on a completely different identity. The appeal of these combinations lies in their ability to make something recognisable feel surprising again. Basil can be comforting in a classic recipe and unexpectedly sophisticated in a contemporary dessert.
The Smell of Summer: Why Basil Brings Back Memories
For me, basil immediately brings back the Cinque Terre and the basil gelato I associate with Corniglia. This summer, I noticed the flavour appearing in more gelaterias, and each encounter brought back the same holiday memories. That’s what makes familiar scents so powerful: they can connect us to places and experiences long after we’ve left them behind. Smell has a particularly close relationship with autobiographical memory, involving brain regions associated with emotion and recollection. A basil leaf might remind someone of a grandmother’s kitchen, a plant growing on a balcony or a summer spent by the sea. Perfumer Christine Nagel explored this emotional dimension when creating Hermès Eau de Basilic Pourpre, inspired by discovering different basil varieties at a market stall. Her interpretation shows how an ordinary sensory encounter can become the starting point for a fragrance. Perhaps basil’s appeal lies partly in its ability to make everyday experiences feel unexpectedly personal.
From Pesto to Skincare: Could Basil Be Your Skin’s Next Favourite Ingredient?
Basil’s journey beyond the kitchen also reaches the beauty laboratory. The plant contains naturally occurring compounds, including polyphenols and flavonoids, that have attracted scientific interest for their antioxidant properties. Researchers have explored how basil extracts might be incorporated into cosmetic formulations, while a 2026 study from the University of Ferrara investigated basil essential oil as a potential antioxidant for improving the stability of cosmetic oils. These findings suggest interesting possibilities for skincare development, although they do not establish that a finished basil-based cream will deliver specific benefits to the skin. Beyond its potential functional properties, basil also fits into the wider appeal of botanical beauty, where familiar plants inspire new approaches to product development. An ingredient once valued mainly for its flavour is now being studied for its potential role in how beauty products are formulated.
