By Paula Grell. Cover illustration by Anano Esartia for I’M Firenze Digest.
Paris’s Centre Pompidou is celebrating 100 years of Surrealism with the monumental event Surrealism: The Centenary Exhibition. Running until January 13, 2025, the exhibition highlights how this movement has transcended visual art and literature, significantly impacting the fashion world as well. It serves not only as a celebration of art, but also as a tribute to the way the boundary-pushing aesthetic of Surrealism continues to shape fashion today, sparking surreal moments on Instagram, TikTok, and even in the metaverse.
Let ́s Get Conscious About the Subconscious: Surrealism’s Impact on Fashion
The exhibition is designed like a labyrinth, leading visitors through 14 thematic sections that showcase the influence of this movement across all artistic disciplines. Paintings, sculptures, films and rare literary artefacts come together to tell the story of a creative wave that profoundly reshaped our understanding of art, dreams and reality. The Pompidou Centre not only honours the origins of the movement but also reaffirms its impact on modern culture, particularly in fashion.
Fashion designers continue to look to Surrealism as a source of inspiration, using the movement’s dreamlike visions to create clothing that challenges norms and encourages audiences to embrace the fantastical, the irrational, and even the uncanny. The movement’s attempt to blur the lines between reality and fantasy aligns perfectly with the experimental direction of contemporary fashion. From Schiaparelli’s iconic lobster dress, created in collaboration with Salvador Dali, to virtual wardrobes in the metaverse, the influence of Surrealism on fashion remains enduring and transformative, reminding us that the boundary between fantasy and reality is always shifting.
Dreamlike Fashion: Follow the Path to Get in the Mood
In recent years, many fashion designers have embraced Surrealism as a central element of their avant-garde aesthetics. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Alexandre McQueen showcased his fascination with Surrealism by blurring the lines between clothing and sculpture while exploring darker, more psychological themes. His collections often incorporated unexpected elements, such as skeletons or animal horns, which reflected the movement’s exploration of fear, fantasy and mortality. Similarly, John Galliano’s designs also often play with symbolism, creating pieces that seem to narrate stories straight from a dream.
The leader of the modern fashion-surrealist movement can still be considered Daniel Roseberry, the artistic director of Schiaparelli. As mentioned earlier, the founder of this house, Elsa Schiaparelli, was one of the first designers to integrate the principles of this creative movement into fashion, embracing all the risks it entailed. Schiaparelli’s work in the 1930s was marked by playful irreverence, and her iconic creations established a lasting legacy, proving that fashion could serve as a medium for surrealist experimentation. Roseberry is reviving this legacy by incorporating elements such as lobster moulds and animal headdresses inspired by Salvador Dalí. Schiaparelli’s designs present a modern reinterpretation of classic surrealist themes, blending whimsy with haute couture craftsmanship.
Iris van Herpen also draws from the same inspiration. Known for her innovative use of technology, she continues to explore Surrealism through fluid, gravity-defying garments created with 3D printing. Her work combines organic forms with futuristic materials, reflecting the surrealist ethos of transcending conventional boundaries. This blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern technology aligns her with the ideals of the movement.
Viktor & Rolf took a theatrical approach, using exaggerated silhouettes and unconventional materials to present a clear surrealist provocation on the runway. Their work evokes the paradoxes of Magritte and the playful irreverence of Marcel Duchamp, proving that Surrealism in fashion can provide a powerful and emotional experience that both challenges and enchants the audience.
Surrealism Takes Over Social Media, from Instagram to Tik-Tok
Surrealism has extended its reach beyond clothing; social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have amplified its influence as fashion brands decode its essence to create surreal and shareable moments that transcend traditional advertising. By using filters, digital avatars, and video effects, brands are reinventing how Surrealism can engage consumers in the digital age. Designers and artists are also experimenting with augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR) to craft immersive fashion experiences inspired by Surrealism. Brands like Balenciaga and Gucci have recently ventured into the metaverse, incorporating surreal elements into digital spaces and inviting audiences to partake in their dream worlds. The resurgence of Surrealism in fashion reflects broader social themes, offering escapism and a challenge to norms in times of uncertainty. Its presence in the 2024 collections is a tribute to its historical roots while also presenting a forward-thinking vision that redefines what clothing can symbolise.
So, let yourself go: get conscious about the subconscious!
