By Kristine Urban. Cover Kate Moss 1993 by Paolo Roversi image courtesy of MoMu
The exhibition Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor at MoMu Antwerp (open until February 2, 2025) explores beauty as both a disguise and a declaration. Drawing inspiration from the groundbreaking works of Belgian painter James Ensor, this provocative showcase reveals the multifaceted role of make-up in art, identity and society. Through a curated collection of fine art, fashion, and multimedia installations, the exhibition reinterprets beauty as a nuanced conversation between concealment and authenticity, sparking reflection on the power of self-presentation
A Dazzling Interplay of Masks, Mirrors and Make-up
MoMu Antwerp’s exhibition, Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor, presents a captivating exploration of beauty, weaving a narrative that transcends time and artistic mediums. By referencing artists from antiquity to contemporary times, the exhibition highlights the relationship between aesthetics and art as an inseparable dialogue. Central to this narrative is the theme of masquerade, exemplified through the transformative medium of make-up.
James Ensor’s Legacy: The Mask as a Medium of Truth
Belgian painter James Ensor serves as the conceptual cornerstone of the exhibition. His theories frame make-up as a mask, a tool for “insincere coquetry,” which reveals, through irony, the raw truth of his subjects. In Ensor’s world, masks both conceal and expose, offering a subverted take on authenticity. This duality of make-up as both a disguise and a revelation forms the foundation of the works featured in the exhibition.
The Artists Behind the Mask: Pushing the Boundaries of Identity
Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor features an impressive roster of artists spanning fine art, fashion and make-up. This exhibition includes works from renowned creators such as Issy Wood, Cindy Sherman, and Tschabalala Self, all of whom push the boundaries of self-presentation and identity. Cindy Sherman’s celebrated self-portraits, for instance, hinge on her ability to completely transform her appearance, embodying new personas with each piece. Through these transformations, she critically examines societal perceptions of beauty, gender, and identity.
The inclusion of Genieve Figgis’s hauntingly playful paintings and Harley Weir’s raw photographic studies further highlights the versatility of make-up as a medium. Julien d’Ys and Inge Grognard bring avant-garde hairstyling and make-up to the forefront, while fashion powerhouses like Martin Margiela, Christian Lacroix, and Walter Van Beirendonck emphasise the synergy between wearable art and cosmetic innovation.
Adding to this rich tapestry, MoMu in Antwerp has collaborated with Beauty Papers, a leading art and culture platform, to curate three video installations. These works expand on Ensor’s themes, interpreting them through the lens of contemporary beauty and its diverse representations.
The Psychology of Make-up: More Than Just Aesthetic
Make-up, as the exhibition reveals, is not just a tool for enhancement; it is also a profound medium of expression. It serves as both paint and ritual, imbued with the power to transform, conceal, and liberate. This duality is exemplified in Pat McGrath’s groundbreaking work for Margiela Spring-Summer 2024 collection, where the “porcelain doll effect” creates a surreal and hyper-feminine narrative. In this context, make-up transcends mere aesthetics; it becomes a psychological mode of storytelling that resonates deeply beyond the surface.
In our contemporary society, make-up engages three of the five senses, making its appeal both sensory and symbolic. Beyond its visual allure, the act of applying make-up serves as a cathartic ritual that fosters a connection between the self and the outer world.
Make-up as a Statement of Humanity and Self-perception
Ultimately, the exhibition positions make-up not as a superficial mask but as a profound statement about humanity and self-perception. Through the works on display, Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor illuminates the many roles make-up plays: as a protector, transformer, and provocateur. It explores how beauty standards evolve and the ways individuals reclaim these standards to express their true selves.
Rethink the Face You Show to the World
James Ensor’s legacy, coupled with the ingenuity of contemporary artists, invites visitors to reconsider the polished veneer of beauty. Is it a deception, or is it an authentic reflection of our desires, fears, and complexities? The exhibition offers no definitive answers; instead, it provides a rich palette of interpretations, encouraging us all to look closely at the faces we see and the ones we show to the world.
