By Camilla Sarra. Cover image courtesy of Fondazione Zeffirelli.
Franco Zeffirelli, one of the most important Italian directors and set designers of the 20th century, is back in the spotlight. For the first time, the iconic costumes from his legendary film Brother Sun, Sister Moon will be showcased in an unmissable exhibition in Florence at the Zeffirelli Foundation in Florence (until November 30, 2024). This event is a must-see for fashion enthusiasts and art students alike, offering a rare glimpse into the extraordinary world of Zeffirelli’s cinematic artistry. Don’t miss your chance to explore the stunning designs that brought his unforgettable characters to life!
Franco Zeffirelli’s exhibition is a trip into his career through theatre and film
Born in Florence on February 12, 1923, and passing away in 2019, Zeffirelli left an indelible legacy on the international cultural scene. He was known for blending tradition with an extraordinarily refined aesthetic sensibility. His works not only enchanted audiences but also made great artistic and literary traditions accessible by translating them into a modern and universal cinematic and theatrical language. His legacy continues to thrive through the Zeffirelli Foundation, which is dedicated to preserving and promoting the director’s cultural heritage.
Zeffirelli began his career in theatre, collaborating with masters like Luchino Visconti, for whom he worked as an assistant set designer. He later became well-known for his opera productions, staging some of the most memorable post-war performances. He also collaborated with Maria Callas on several occasions.
He gained international recognition with films like Romeo and Juliet (1968), which won two Oscars, one for the exceptional costumes designed by Danilo Donati. Zeffirelli stood out for his ability to produce visually stunning works, filled with intricate details and historical accuracy, that captivated audiences with powerful performances and precise, stylistic direction.
One of his most beloved films is Brother Sun, Sister Moon (1972), which depicts the life of St. Francis of Assisi, exploring his spirituality and deep connection with nature. This film earned Zeffirelli the David di Donatello award for Best Director and an Oscar nomination, showcasing once again his talent for telling universal stories through a deeply aesthetic and spiritual perspective.
The Zeffirelli exhibition of Costumes from Brother Sun, Sister Moon
Until November 30, 2024, the Music Hall of the Zeffirelli Foundation in Florence will host a special exhibition dedicated to the costumes created by Danilo Donati for the film Brother Sun, Sister Moon. The exhibit, strongly supported by Pippo Zeffirelli, president of the Zeffirelli Foundation, and the Tuscany Region, was organised in collaboration with the Cerratelli Foundation and under the artistic direction of Diego Fiorini. For the first time in over 50 years, more than 30 original costumes from the film will be on display to the public. These costumes, created by the historic Cerratelli Art House, were worn by the film’s stars Graham Faulkner, Judi Bowker, Alec Guinness, and Valentina Cortese. The selection of costumes represents the most significant moments of the film production, evoking the unmistakable touch of Danilo Donati, the master costume designer who won an Oscar for the costumes in Zeffirelli’s Romeo and Juliet.
The Genius of Costume Design Master Danilo Donati
Danilo Donati, born in Luzzara in 1926, was one of the greatest costume designers of the 20th century. He is considered, alongside Piero Tosi, to be a true artist in cinematic costume design. Donati received his artistic training in Florence at the Porta Romana Art Institute, where he developed the imaginative and visionary approach that characterised his entire career.
His collaboration with Zeffirelli began in the 1950s and marked a turning point for both. Donati designed costumes for two operas, three theatrical productions, and three films directed by Zeffirelli. Among them was Romeo and Juliet (1968), which earned him the first of his two Oscars, and of course, Brother Sun, Sister Moon, where his exceptional talent for creating mystical and medieval atmospheres was at its best.
Iconic Scenes from Franco Zeffirelli’s Films: Timeless Moments in Cinema
The Balcony Scene in Romeo and Juliet (1968)
The balcony scene in Zeffirelli’s film is perhaps one of his most famous works. He brought to life one of the most romantic and passionate sequences in film history. Set among lush gardens and bathed in moonlight, the scene captures the youthful passion between Romeo (Leonard Whiting) and Juliet (Olivia Hussey). Zeffirelli’s direction, combined with Danilo Donati’s costumes and evocative cinematography, made this scene a timeless classic and set a new aesthetic for Shakespearean adaptations on the big screen.
St. Francis’ Dance in Brother Sun, Sister Moon (1972)
In the film depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi, one of the most iconic scenes is when Francis, played by Graham Faulkner, dances freely in the fields, celebrating his new connection with God and nature. The scene captures the joyful and mystical spirit of St. Francis, underscored by Riz Ortolani’s evocative score and the natural light reflecting the beauty of divine creation. This moment perfectly expresses the pursuit of spiritual purity and the love of nature that defines the saint’s character.
Mercutio’s Death in Romeo and Juliet (1968)
Another unforgettable scene in Zeffirelli’s Shakespearean masterpiece is the death of Mercutio. The tragedy unfolds in an emotional crescendo, from the duel to Mercutio’s agony as he curses both families (“A plague o’ both your houses!”). The scene is intense, tragic, and gripping, amplified by the excellent performances and Zeffirelli’s direction, which brings out the complexity of Shakespeare’s text.
Callas’ First Appearance in Callas Forever (2002)
In Callas Forever, Zeffirelli’s final film, the iconic opera diva, portrayed by Fanny Ardant, makes her first on-screen appearance with extraordinary strength and stage presence. Zeffirelli, who had worked with the real Maria Callas, captures the essence of her artistic and human persona in this scene, making it a personal homage to his friend and muse. This film represents a final tribute to his career and his deep connection to opera and theatre.
Zeffirelli’s Most Famous Actors: Stars of the Silver Screen
Elizabeth Taylor: A Legendary Collaboration
Elizabeth Taylor, one of Hollywood’s most famous actresses, worked with Zeffirelli in The Taming of the Shrew (1967), where she played the role of Katherine, the protagonist of Shakespeare’s comedy. Her vigorous and charismatic performance alongside Richard Burton (as Petruchio) is one of the most celebrated in Shakespearean cinema, and Zeffirelli managed to turn their turbulent relationship into an irresistible spectacle of comedy and passion.
Richard Burton, the Magnetic Presence
Richard Burton played Petruchio in The Taming of the Shrew, delivering an energetic and magnetic performance. The chemistry between Burton and Taylor, who were married at the time, was maximised by Zeffirelli, who directed them in one of the liveliest and most memorable versions of the Shakespearean comedy.
Fanny Ardant Capturing the Essence of Maria Callas
Fanny Ardant portrayed Maria Callas in Callas Forever (2002), Zeffirelli’s final film. In this film, which imagines the last years of the great opera singer’s life, Ardant masterfully captured both the strength and vulnerability of the celebrated soprano, delivering one of the most profound performances of her career.
Cher’s Versatility
Cher worked with Zeffirelli in Tea with Mussolini (1999), a film set in Italy during World War II. In the role of Elsa, a rich, eccentric, and free-spirited American, Cher demonstrated great versatility as an actress, receiving praise for her performance. The film tells the story of a group of English women in Florence during the Fascist regime and also features performances by Maggie Smith and Judi Dench.
