By Silvia Manzoni. Cover by David Tip x Unsplash.
It is called “ethical gold”, and it is the only one the major players in the jewellery industry want. The most precious metal must demonstrate virtue and have an impeccable reputation. It presents a challenge for jewellery companies, as they cannot make any missteps in terms of respecting the environment and workers. But what exactly are we talking about?
We spoke with an expert, Daniela Colaiacovo. She hails from a family of mining entrepreneurs with a background in cement before they purchased an alluvial goldfield in Central America. As the founder of the sustainable jewellery brand Makal in London, she was one of the early adopters of the responsible practices that are now being embraced by the entire industry.
Is ethical gold the future of jewelry design?
Just a few years ago, big luxury brands turned their backs on the association between ‘gold’ and ‘ethical.’ What led to this change?
«It was not a sudden movement; it took time. Initially, there was a lot of reluctance around us. Today, all brands have changed their policies. These changes are driven by consumers, who started asking questions, especially young people, whose need for transparency has influenced brands’ choices. Additionally, trade organisations such as the World Gold Council, The Responsible Jewellery Council(RJC), the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA ) just to name a few, have also taken a stand and started implementing stricter standards. As a result, we now have widespread certifications that reflect these responsible practices».
And how did you approach ethical jewellery?
«In the 2000s, my family, who worked in cement mining, expanded their operations to Central America. My father, who had an adventurous spirit, began to show interest in gold. He recognised the changing attitudes towards mining practices that were harmful to the environment and workers, such as the use of toxic substances like cyanide and mercury, depending on the type of deposit. To make a positive change, my father invested in a river-type gold concession with the idea of improving the existing parameters. This took time because we developed a mining process that used only water that used additives. The mine operated on a closed cycle through recycling water and reusing all waste materials such as clay and gravel. In addition, one-third of the production was mined by local artisan miners, whom we formalised. It should be known that about 20 per cent of the world’s gold mining is conducted by artisanal miners, both women and men, who often operate illegally. In our concessions, we have assisted them in formalising their operations and organising themselves into independent cooperatives benefiting the whole country».
Are ethical gold certifications clear and reliable?
«There are plenty of them. For example, Makal is certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the entity representing the category, one of the first to be created and the most recognised entity in the jewellery industry. RJC was founded in the early 2000s by 14 top-tier brands, including Cartier. Cartier left it two years ago to launch a new initiative, supported by Richemont and Kering, called Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, in partnership with RJC. Other notable organisations include FairTrade and Fairmined. Obtaining certification can be costly and requires the company to meet rigorous standards. Despite the challenges, even if you have a small company, it is important to have an external body validate your work practices through audits. It is reassuring for the company itself. We chose to go down this path right away; we wanted to give a clear message to consumers. For us, it aligns with our core values, on par with creativity».
The parameters that are taken into consideration include whether the gold comes from conflict-affected countries, right?
«Yes, of course. For example, the Responsible Jewellery Council’s Chain of Custody certification standard aims to provide a control mechanism for businesses operating in conflict zones to ensure that the material produced does not come from war zones».
Does the brand provide the certifications upon request, or are they displayed?
«I usually explain the certifications to customers, even if they do not ask for them. Often, as soon as the consumer hears the words “certificates” they feel reassured and do not delve into much detail. They trust these organisations».
What still remains to be done?
«We still have a lot of work to do in educating the consumer about terms that can be confusing. In the industrial world, we will see more and more collaboration between international organisations, as they are the ones that set principles and standards. You can’t work alone in this area. A few years ago, the World Gold Council and the London Bullion Market Association, along with several prestigious international bodies, initiated a Declaration of Responsibility and Sustainability Principles. This declaration highlighted the shared commitment of gold trading entities to ten key objectives, including addressing climate change and human rights. Progress has been made, and there is no turning back».
