In the kaleidoscopic world of haute couture, few names shine as brightly or as controversially as John Galliano. An architect of fashion’s narrative, he didn’t just design clothes; he wove intricate tales that captivated runways and redefined creativity. Each of his collections was a chapter in a grand story, meticulously crafted with a specific muse and context in mind. His genius, however, isn’t without its shadows.
The recent documentary High & Low, directed by Kevin Macdonald (2023), delves into the complexities of his life, from his peak at Dior to the controversies that almost eclipsed his talent. Yet, Galliano’s creative legacy endures, sparking new admiration with each collection at Margiela. Despite the tumultuous chapters of his life, Galliano’s vision continues to inspire and redefine the boundaries of fashion. No shine without shadow. Between John Galliano’s High & Low moments, we want to highlight our favourite highs. Here, you’ll find some of his most iconic and fascinating collections, celebrating the enduring impact of the bias-cut master.

John Galliano and Christian Dior Fall 2006 Couture: Icons, Sirens and Arabian Deities

Let’s begin with a collection of unparalleled complexity. Before us lies an enchanting giardino all’italiana, a typical Renaissance garden. Models strut through it with intensity, embodying the fierce spirit of medieval warriors like Joan of Arc, the delicate fragility of a mermaid, the mysterious allure of a 1920s Hollywood starlet, and the brooding mystique of a gothic enchantress. In this timeless setting – enhanced by the strong presence of mathematical perspective – all these influences come together seamlessly. John Galliano’s diverse references brilliantly come together to create a vision of an idealised world that transcends time and space. Crowns sparkle like chandeliers, gilded garments resemble majestic armours and bronze accents evoke Arabian royalty. The use of red, suggesting both BDSM and medieval sorcery, along with gleaming surfaces, intricate embroidery, bold colour clashes, and dual-toned hosiery, conjures a narrative evocative of the Middle Ages. 

Givenchy Fall 1996 Couture: French Revolutionaries and Pirates

For his final show at Givenchy, Galliano returned to his roots, completing a full circle by paying homage to the French Revolution period and Les Merveilleuses. These women were known for their extravagant dresses with empire waistlines and sheer fabrics, reminiscent of ancient Greek clothing. The show also referenced his graduate collection, Les Incroyables, the counterparts of Les Merveilleuses. This historical period has always fascinated John Galliano and remains a recurring theme in his career.
A standout piece from this collection was the iconic white dress with white lace thongs, worn by Kate Moss with a chandelier-like headpiece. Les Merveilleuses shared the runway with 1940s-inspired silhouettes, leopard prints, black fur pirate ensembles, and, of course, extravagant headpieces, including one evoking an ancient camera. Dead leaves adorned the runway, creating a decadent French boulevard atmosphere.

Christian Dior Spring 2011 Couture: Chiaroscuro Archive Homage

The Spring 2011 Couture Collection is a significant homage to John Galliano’s past. Galliano, originally an illustration student at Central Saint Martins, pays tribute to one of the masters of fashion illustration, René Gruau, known for his chiaroscuro effects. Galliano successfully mimics these effects through a series of garments, especially coats and jackets, in the early looks of the runway, using layered tulle to achieve a blurred black effect. This mastery extends throughout the collection, evident in ball gowns that blend pale light blue with nude hues, fuchsia with brown, and dark green with even darker shades.
The silhouettes in the collection are reminiscent of the 1950s, drawing directly from the Dior archives and the original designs created by Monsieur Dior himself. Additionally, the collection references the work of Charles Frederick Worth, adding another layer of historical depth. This combination of historical homage and technical brilliance makes the Spring 2011 Couture Collection a standout in John Galliano’s career.

John Galliano Fall 1994 RTW: East meets West in avant-garde couture

John Galliano’s 1994 collection is the perfect conclusion to this article, as it embodies a positive outlook towards the future, especially for young designers. At the time of designing this collection, Galliano was enduring personal hardships, even sleeping on a friend’s floor. Despite these challenges, his creativity remained unwavering. Galliano received help from a Paris hostess named São Schlumberger, who provided him with a space at the Left Bank Hotel Particulier. In this collection, John Galliano blended Eastern and Western influences, merging Japanese kimonos with 1940s-style couture.
The collection is renowned for its extremely short kimonos – now part of the MET collection – paired with thigh-high stockings and extravagant, colourful, rigid plastic headpieces. Despite these vibrant elements, the collection predominantly featured a black-and-white palette. This show marked Galliano’s entrance into the fashion world, and just a year later, he secured a position at Givenchy.