By Gherardo Ulivi. Photographs: Courtesy TheCube Archive.
Fashion archives, once accessible only to insiders, are now open to the public. These archives are constantly evolving, serving as cultural reservoirs for preservation and inspiration. The “fashion of the past” still seems to have something to say and continues to influence current events, including the upcoming Met Gala Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, and various exhibitions and projects curated by prominent figures in recent years like Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons Art of the In-Between (2017) and the experimental Gucci Vault platform (2021). What we want to know now, however, is how we can utilise these archives without feeling overwhelmed. How can we engage with the rich and dynamic stories they hold? How can we tap into an archive and create something new? And most importantly, what will they turn into? To discuss how to navigate this ever-changing landscape, we talked with Corinna Chiassai, co-creative director of Studio Chiassai and artistic director of TheCube Archive.
What should a a fashion archive mean to a young designer?
A fashion archive is a dynamic universe where past, present and future converge. We need to move away from the idea that an archive is exclusively for preservation and study and instead recognise its potential for evolution. A young designer should fully engage with the archival system, not just to analyse historical materials, but to gain a deep awareness of them through interaction.
How do you reinterpret and then reactivate an archival piece?
There are two ways to do this: inspiring and reinterpreting. The first method involves observing, knowing, defining an origin and then creating something completely new. The second one, on the other hand, is about upcycling, then focusing on an archival piece by making changes so that it can take on a new form.
What is the characteristic of the fashion archive that fascinates you most?
The unexpected. The surprise of discovery, especially if we are talking about an archive that includes garments and accessories from multiple historical periods. Each one of us, through our own point of view, “the eye of the observer”, can perceive beauty in a different way, and this is crucial in developing our personal interpretation.
What advice would you give to young enthusiasts who want to work in an archive?
To know, study and understand. Having a passion for fashion history is fundamental to understanding the whys of an object. Nothing is accidental, and this must be clear if we want to recontextualise and make a product relevant in the present.
As artistic director of TheCube Archive, what are your aspirations for your fashion archive?
I dream of it becoming a benchmark for the new vision of archiving. At TheCube, we have been focusing on redefining the concept of the word “archive” and exploring its evolving structure. TheCube is changing and embracing new opportunities and possibilities that we must know how to adapt and leverage in order to provide a more effective and targeted experience.
Is there an archival item that is most relevant or special to you?
As a creative, you are often influenced by your surroundings and feelings, but everything is temporary. The only guide is the urge to create and bring a vision to life – a whirlwind that encompasses images, clothes, objects, and music; it’s impossible to focus on just one element.
What is the future of fashion archives?
Our goal is to transform them into a temple of knowledge easily accessible to future generations. It is essential to understand the past in order to grow and shape the future. The archives can now be accessed physically by appointment, but we must also use new media as a means of cultural dissemination — this is the approach we take with TheCube.
