By Giulia Piceni. Cover images courtesy of Gorunway.
Milano Fashion Week 2024 featuring collections for next Fall/Winter 24-25 is gearing up to start. The “fashion month” is fast approaching, following the conclusion of fashion weeks dedicated to menswear and couture. If the September runways are set towards the spectacular, gathering a larger crowd, the February events are usually for insiders.
The upcoming Milano Fashion Week 2024 calendar lacks important emerging names such as The Attico, Cormio and Andreadamo, while it features plenty of established ‘big’ brands.
This means that while we may focus on the more well-known designers, we can still expect surprises, especially from three major debuts: Moschino, Tod’s and Blumarine.
Here’s an analysis of the upcoming debuts and the free-entry bonuses we have spotted on the provisional calendar for the Milan Fashion Week taking place from February 20 to 26.
MILANO FASHION WEEK 2024: ONLINE SHOWS AND PUBLIC EVENTS
Fashion week events are always hard to get into, especially if you are a fashion student looking for an invitation to the shows. In case you are unable to attend the event in person, you can opt for behind-the-scenes work as a dresser or watch the shows online, which is also a popular option among insiders. It’s worth noting that for in recent years, the last day of Milan Fashion Week has been reserved to online shows. This placement on the calendar is strategic, as it allows the press and participants to move on to the next location of the fashion month with ease.
During these days, one of the shows to watch out for is by Maison Nencioni, a brand created by an alumna of Istituto Marangoni in Florence. The brand’s creations blend gothic and sartorial styles and have been gaining increasing popularity. Another brand to focus on is Annakiki, whose cold and surrealist allure speaks of a fashionably dystopian future, narrating fashion from another planet.
There is a small bonus for those who are able to visit Milan. Don’t forget to check out the invitation-free events, including a signing by the fashion photographer Juergen Teller of his latest book i need to live along with four other artist’s books at Triennale saturday 24th from 11 to 13:30 a.m. In addition, the young designer Federico Cina will be paying homage to his homeland through a celebration of the new Tortellino bag by launching new colour variants and the mini version during a public event in Via Pier Candido Decembrio from 17-20 p.m.
MILANO FASHION WEEK 2024 CELEBRATES MOSCHINO, AN ARCHIVE AFFAIR WITH APPIOLAZA
Born in Buenos Aires but with his heart set on the music of Manchester, Moschino’s new designer Adrian Appiolaza cultivated his dream in his home in the Argentinian capital, hovering surrounded by his grandmother’s tailoring studio and the records of Joy Division and Oasis. After studying at the eclectic Central Saint Martins college and interning at Alexander McQueen’s ateliers, Appiolaza went from success to success, spending years at Chloé alongside Phoebe Philo, then Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs and J.W. Anderson as Ready-to-Wear Designer Director over 10 years.
Succeeding the American Jeremy Scott and taking over from the prematurely gone Davide Renne, Appiolaza’s debut show for the eclectic Milanese brand will be staged on February 22 at the Museo La Permanente, where Moschino celebrated its first ten years with the exhibition Moschino – X anni di Chaos in 1993.
Appiolaza appears perfect for the role of creative director of the Milanese brand, given his in-depth knowledge of the Moschino archives. He has always been a huge fan of the brand, to the point of collecting pieces over the years. Such admiration for the creative genius that he himself defined in the press release as featuring “an abrasive irony” only reinforces the high expectations for the soon-to-be-famous desecrator of fashion.
CHIAPPONI LEAVING TOD’S TO TAMBURINI AND FLYING TO BLUMARINE
From anomaly to a regular occurrence, the change of creative directors is a frenetic dance to which fashion insiders soon had to get used. Yet another case in point is Walter Chiapponi, who previously served as creative director of Tod’s for four years and is now joining Blumarine. The move comes as Blumarine seeks a new stylistic direction after the uninspiring Y2K under former creative director Nicola Brognano. Chiapponi promises to delve deeply into the brand’s heritage and archives to revitalise its identity.
Matteo Tamburini, Chiapponi’s successor at Tod’s, also hails from Matthieu Blazy’s talent workshop of Bottega Veneta, and he seems to be a match made in heaven for Diego Della Valle’s brand. A change of chairs made too quickly? Chiapponi’s minimalist style was hard not to be charmed by, but Tamburini’s background in leather goods is expected to lead Tod’s to new heights of quality and style.
