By Giulia Piceni. Cover image: Todd Snyder Fall 2024 show at Pitti Uomo. Courtesy of Pitti Uomo.
In recent years, the influence of social media has radically changed the way fashion enthusiasts perceive trends. Micro-trends and the widely discussed topic of cores have led to a compulsive shopping craze, both online and in the second-hand market. However, seeing this incredible fluctuation of styles, some consumers have rejected these trends and opted for a more consistent wardrobe.
Regardless of your stance, spotting trends can be an interesting exercise, not only to add items or accessories to your wishlist but also to uncover references for upcoming shows. This article aims to provide you with a summary of the latest shows and help you identify the next trends that you might want to follow. So, read on and take notes!
- MEGA OR MICRO PRINTS IS THE WAY TO GO
For the upcoming cold season, prints are going to be all over the place to warm up your spirits and add colour to men’s clothing. Probably Pharell Williams’ first compelling show for Louis Vuitton Menswear, this tribute to the Far West felt more impactful than the previous Pont Neuf show. However, it still appeared as a somewhat simplified and diluted version of the presence of Black and Native Americans in the cowboy fantasy of 1950s movies. Louis Vuitton is no stranger to the Far West aesthetic, as demonstrated in the Spring/Summer 2021 show by Virgil Abloh, featuring cowboy boot sneakers.
Merging workwear with a more legendary aesthetic à la John Wayne, the creative team reintroduced the Minecraft pixelated pattern in a cow-like version, along with intricate floral embroideries evoking the scent of dusty roads. They used rough leather to create the texture of horse-riding equipment and incorporated warm, earthy-toned camouflage prints.
JW Anderson has always been open about its passion for prints, and the latest show was no exception in terms of visual impact. The primary inspiration came from Stanley Kubrick’s masterpiece Eyes Wide Shut (1999), which the creative director oddly deems the perfect Christmas movie due to its sensuality. Knitwear burst forth with vibrant geometric prints, which have become a hallmark of the brand’s excellence.
Regarding knits, SS Daley showcased ankle-length knitted ponchos representing tapestry-like equestrian and floral patterns on the Pitti Uomo runway. The floppy necklines of the garments gave an immediate feeling of a decadent noble who had adopted ancient tapestry as DIY garments, just like Rossella O’Hara did in Gone with the Wind (1939), making it a highly relatable and easily recognisable fashion statement.
The Belgian creative Walter Van Beirendonck is known for his mastery of prints, but this season, he took his obsession to the next level. He mixed multi-coloured tartans and blurry optical lines, florals and animal prints with more stylised patterns, creating a clash of bold combos that is the perfect option for maximalist fashionistas.
- LAYER YOUR FITS LIKE YOUR ECLECTIC GRANDPA
The eclectic grandpa style is the latest TikTok craze, which has recently been adopted by women’s clothing as well. This style features a blend of elements ranging from ’70s suede to late-’90s tracksuits and is characterised by sweater vests, loafers, and vibrant, grandpa-like knitwear. While the main features of this style were evident, Magliano’s latest show at Pitti Uomo aesthetically aligned with this trend but added layers of interpretation inspired by Andrej Tarkovskij’s 1983 film Nostalghia and the cherished provincial allure of his model-characters.
Bringing a nautical and preppy allure by combining dark blue jeans, thick dense patterned knitwear and well-cut, peacoats made of rawly textured wool, the talented British designer Grace Wales Bonner has a unique way of connecting generations: a cerebral visual path which she is one of the few to be able to indulge into.
From the tucked-into trousers along and the Carlsberg font present on hoodies, Botter in Paris gave grandpa-style elements a cleaner allure. On the runway, he showcased Kurt Cobain-like striped sweaters and sartorial cuts accompanied by slouchier silhouettes and worn-out leather pieces. Even from the screen, the pieces seem to have the scent of mint and tobacco aftershave that only a stylish grandpa would use.
- THE OUTDOORS IS THE NEW OFFICE ATTIRE
An illusion or an office fantasy was brought to life in the latest menswear show by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. The show brought the outdoors indoors, combining the synthetic and natural elements and aseptic and humid environments that resembled a pot-terrarium under one’s feet. The setting shines a light on our relationship with the natural world in a historical moment when the plain outlook of the office environment has been romanticised through the normcore and office siren trends. The creative duo sought to represent the three different natures of the Prada men – the businessman, the working man and the thinking man – all in one show. By combining a less formal crocheted beanie with the typical office attire of pants, tie, jacket and white shirt, they achieved the desired conceptual parallelism.
Using a similar garment vocabulary, Fendi showcased a collection on the runway that had a combination of indoor-outdoor clothing but with a less colorful palette and a tendency towards mimetic designs. The collection had no precise inspiration but was presented as a free-flowing expression of Silvia Fendi Venturini’s consciousness. The show had a Balmoral touch that seemed to reference aristocratic outdoor activities like horse riding and hunting. The runway environment designed by the contemporary artist Nico Vascellari was filled with waxed jackets and peacoats alongside office-like fits made of thin wool sweaters and basic shirts paired with calf-length formal coats.
- TO NEVER GET IT WRONG, OPT FOR A CLASSIC TOTAL-BLACK LOOK
It’s hard for a total black look to ever go out of fashion, and the latest runway shows portrayed its relevance in all its variations.
The Dolce & Gabbana show, titled sleek featured the silhouettes of Luchino Visconti-like princes in a sober tone, highlighting the Sicilian duo’s decades-long expertise in the fashion industry. The Italian brand had already experimented largely with this colour, a trademark of the brand since its inception, and the FW 2023 collection for men and the previous season for women featured the colour extensively. Simone Rutigliano’s contemporary styling approach added a fresh twist, creating a clean slate for the brand’s image.
Moving to Paris, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi has recently premiered his latest show with a series of total-black outfits that combined the romantic touch of Maupassant’s character Bel-Ami from the 19th century with a raw and edgy touch of Helmut Lang and early 90s Raf Simmons. The show’s location, surrounded by concrete, reinforced the theme.
EGONLAB took a rockstar-friendly approach to black by alluding to a specific romantic dimension made of deep, tortured love and the glamour allure stereotypically belonging to a tormented artist. Interestingly, the show’s inspiration came from the 2013 film Only lovers left alive. Starring Tilda Swinton and Tom Hiddleston, it narrates the love story of two eccentric vampire lovers, Adam and Eve, who share a passion for music and art. The film’s costumes, featuring a combination of sleazy and sartorial cuts, can be seen in the French fashion’s brand 9th show.
