By Armando Aureliano Sauzullo. Cover images by Cristina González Clavijo.
Fashion once promised transformation. In prosperous times, we believed the right outfit could unlock a better version of ourselves. However, when economic uncertainty looms, that belief begins to fade.
What happens when clothing shifts from being a mode of self-expression to a means of navigating visibility, class, and survival? This isn’t just a new wave of trends; it’s a radical shift in what we wear, why we wear it, and what it says about what we can (or cannot) afford to desire.
The old distinctions between luxury and fast fashion, aspiration and irony are fading away. Instead, we are witnessing the emergence of a fragmented and deeply personal language of dress—one that focuses less on conforming to trends and more on communicating individual identity.
Here’s how fashion is evolving as a generation grapples with both aesthetic instinct and economic instability, finding meaning amidst scarcity, noise, and necessity.
Fashion Recession: how to hack a personal style amid economic pressures
1. Anti-Fashion: Dressing “Wrong” as a Powerful Code of Rebellion in a Time of Crisis and Recession
Looking expensive is no longer the goal. If anything, it has become somewhat obnoxious. In a climate marked by layoffs and rising debt, trying too hard to dress a certain way often signals delusion or privilege. This is where anti-fashion comes in: it embraces clashing layers, worn-out sneakers, ironic graphics, and clothes intentionally styled “wrong.” It’s not about laziness; it’s a statement.
This movement isn’t about a lack of care; it’s about redefining what it means to care. When effortlessness becomes inaccessible—many people lack the time or money for minimalism—Gen Z turns to friction. Think of a moth-eaten sweater styled like armour or a thrifted skirt layered over jeans: pieces that say, “I know the rules; I’m just not playing your game.” It’s a form of resistance expressed through uniquely curated, one-of-a-kind looks.
2. Fashion Recession: Shame Economy and the End of Aspiration
Fashion has always been fuelled by desire, but recently, that desire seems to have quieted. We’re no longer presented with dreams of “having it all.” Instead, we’re offered 10-euro Shein hauls as substitutes for luxurious imported leather goods and knockoffs instead of original designs—and Gen Z isn’t ashamed of it; they’re in on the joke.
Aspiration has dissolved into absurdity. The new status symbol isn’t real luxury; it’s the ability to remix styles, to disguise the cheapness, or to flaunt it unapologetically. There’s unprecedented confidence in owning counterfeit items, especially now that Chinese factory sellers have pulled back the curtain, revealing just how cheaply designers produce their goods and exposing the excessive markup in brand prices. This has driven shoppers directly to the source, causing sites like DHgate and AliExpress to see a significant surge in traffic. Gen Z has effectively disrupted the traditional system by refusing to conform. From this ambiguity, something subversive arises: power.
3. The Micro-Economy of Resale
Resale platforms have become an essential part of how many young people manage their wardrobes and finances. Sites like Depop and Vinted are more than just marketplaces; they function as microeconomies where clothing is bought and sold strategically. Instead of simply acquiring pieces to wear, users consider an item’s potential resale value and versatility.
This approach transforms fashion consumption into a cyclical process: items are purchased with the intention of wearing them and then reselling them, allowing users to recover some costs and fund future purchases. For many, the wardrobe is no longer a static collection but a flexible inventory that helps navigate economic constraints without sacrificing style.
5. Quiet Flexing and the Rise of Stealth Wealth
Traditional luxury, with its logos and bold branding, feels increasingly out of place in an era of inflation and wage stagnation. However, Gen-Z hasn’t completely abandoned the concept of status; they’ve just changed the way they express it. Now, the focus is on subtlety: a rare vintage boot, a perfectly worn-in tee, or a piece from an under-the-radar independent brand. These choices aren’t extravagant displays of wealth; they’re insider cues that demonstrate knowledge rather than just affluence. The flex isn’t the price tag but the cultural reference point.
There’s a unique power in taste that can’t be Googled. It’s a new form of gatekeeping—one that doesn’t flaunt wealth but instead showcases cultural fluency. And for Gen-Z, that fluency is just as connected to personal identity as it is to economic factors.
6. DIY, Upcycling, and the Economics of Making Do
In an era of rising costs and supply chain disruptions, Gen-Z is returning to one of the oldest tools in fashion: their own hands. From reworking thrifted finds to sewing custom pieces, DIY has shifted from a niche to a necessity.
This isn’t just about crafting; it’s also about the economy. Why buy new clothes when you can transform what you already own? Platforms like TikTok and Instagram are filled with tutorials on how to turn a worn-out jacket into a trendy piece or repurpose dead-stock fabric into stylish streetwear.
This approach is not only budget-friendly, but it also empowers individuals. It reframes clothing as not just a static product but as a resource for self-expression and adaptation. Gen-Z isn’t merely customising fashion; they are redefining it.
How Gen Z’s Fashion Revolution Is Reshaping the Industry for Good
Facing dwindling opportunities and increasing costs, young people are treating style not as an escape but as a strategy: a toolkit for navigating instability, expressing identity, and reclaiming agency in an economy that often feels unfair. From resale platforms to ironic layering, subtle subversions to bold rejections, fashion is becoming less about possession and more about what you do with what you have. This shift is fostering a new kind of aesthetic intelligence—one that is fluent in contradiction, resourcefulness, and finding meaning beyond mere labels.
As trend forecasters have noted, the future of fashion focuses less on seasonality and spectacle and more on systems thinking, emphasising circularity, adaptability, and the nuances of subcultures. Brands that once dictated trends are now being forced to listen to these shifts—or risk becoming irrelevant.
What Gen Z is doing in their bedrooms, on apps, and in thrift stores isn’t just a reaction; it goes beyond simply updating their wardrobes. They are applying pressure to the industry and reshaping it. Rather than revising the existing system, they are actively replacing it with their own.
