By Aria Ixchel. Photos by Gabriele Busi.

What does the future of fashion shows look like through the eyes of tomorrow’s top designers?
As the final touches are sewn and the lights are tested for this month’s highly anticipated runway show in Florence, students prepare to debut their collections—not just as graduates, but as Istituto Marangoni Firenze’s selected designers of the year. Handpicked for their visionary work, these designers bring more than aesthetics to the catwalk. Their collections embody conversations around identity, sustainability, and cultural introspection. In this feature, they share the stories behind their work, the challenges they transformed into clarity, and the deeper motivations that inspire every stitch.
Li Xintong, Shreya, Eleonora Maccarone, Elena Maria Brugnara, Martina La Gatta, Giulia Lin, Regina Branca, and Martina Troya Malo are the eight designers who will present their collections at the Florence campus Fashion Show on Wednesday, June 18th. We had the opportunity to sit down with some of them to discuss their journeys to the runway and what it means to be shaping the future of fashion.

How Young Designers Conceptualize the Future of Runway

How did you develop the concept behind your collection?

Shreya: My collection, The Florist, is inspired by Ken Hermann’s Flower Men, a series of portraits of Indian flower vendors. He captured a quiet strength in those images, revealing a softness that I knew existed but rarely saw celebrated in Indian masculinity. This idea served as my starting point.

Giulia Lin: The concept for my collection, Hyphen,originated from a personal reflection on my daily observations: the challenge of striking a balance between work and personal life. This constant imbalance generates emotional tension and inner conflict, widening the gap between our expectations and our realities. I analysed workwear for its structure and rigidity and loungewear for its softness and comfort. By integrating these elements, I aimed to create garments that visually reflect the potential harmony between the two. The three-dimensional seams, inspired by the hyphen, serve as a tangible symbol of connection.

Eleonora Maccarone: This past summer, I discovered the book Restanza by Vito Teti, and I immediately felt compelled to tell its story in my latest collection here at Istituto Marangoni Firenze. I think that each one of us has experienced the feeling Teti describes: “Leaving and staying are the two poles of humanity. Restanza means feeling anchored, yet lost, in our homeland, a place to be protected and at the same time regenerated”.

Regina Branca: I wanted to share my story, as well as the stories of those who embark on journeys caught between what they’ve left behind and what lies ahead. This journey creates a new identity for themselves and, more importantly, for their sense of place. Over the summer, I developed my collection with the aim of expressing my personal narrative and my roots without relying on the classic stereotypes associated with Sicily. I wanted to bring something new and unique. I started from the myth of Arethusa, focusing on its abstraction, and then shifted to the landscapes of the Arethusa Spring, exploring the transformation of matter—from cloud to spring.

From Concept to Creation: The Process Behind Building a Fashion Collection

What method did you use to transform a concept into a tangible fashion collection?

Shreya: I approached the collection as a dialogue between softness and strength, as well as between culture and modernity. To convey this concept, I utilised pleating and sartorial designs combined with draping and continuous sampling. The organza flowers added an emotional depth to each piece. Much like the Flower men, I wanted each look to embody a quiet strength and be impossible to ignore.

Giulia Lin: I incorporated quilting inspired by knit textures, which feel visually familiar but with a completely different tactile experience. That insight led me to explore sensory contrasts. I referred to this approach as ‘double perception’—the language I used to express the tension between opposing elements. I analysed workwear for its rigidity and homewear for its softness, blending these ideas to create garments that visually represent the potential for balance.

Eleonora Maccarone: By rethinking traditional costume proportions, I developed new silhouettes that contrast the rigidity of urban forms with the expressive, powerful volumes found innature. This approach allowed me to explore the duality of staying and leaving. After months of experimentation, I developed and patented a textile manipulation technique that involves sewing dried wildflowers onto leather, knit, and denim. This technique serves as a gesture of resistance to oblivion and a way to preserve beauty through craft.

Regina Branca: I aimed to translate natural elements into textile manipulations, conducting numerous experiments over the summer and selecting the most visually and conceptually strong results. Throughout the year, I continued to experiment, trying to understand how far I could push these techniques by exploring their physical properties.

My goal was to tell my story and the story of those who set off on their journey—caught between what they leave behind and what lies ahead—while creating a new identity for themselves and, most importantly, a sense of belonging.

Lessons Learned by Gen Z Fashion Designers

Was there any advice or personal insight that helped you overcome challenges and reach where you are today?

Shreya: During the early stages of my work, I focused on intricate draping and pleating, but [my tutor] Miguel Garcìa reminded me that the beauty of the ‘Sari-torial’ concept lies in its effortlessness. He advised me not to force the fabric but to let it flow naturally.

Giulia Lin: When I presented my concept to the professor for the second time, he pointed out that the gap between expectations and reality could be a key element to explore further, both visually and in terms of materials. From that moment on, I began to think about how to represent this gap in a tangible way. I came up with the idea of sensory contrast: something that looks one way but feels completely different.

Eleonora Maccarone: There were ups and downs, and I experienced many moments of overwhelm. However, I learned that the process is never truly complete. Just when I thought the collection was finished, something new would emerge. The advice I gave myself—and still follow—is to stay open and keep moving. That’s where the magic happens.

It was touching to see so many classmates draw inspiration from their roots. In an industry obsessed with the next big thing, we instinctively turned back to our own history. That tells me we haven’t lost touch with the past; rather, we’re reimagining it, transforming heritage into something contemporary, fresh, and meaningful.

Regina Branca: The best advice I received over the years came from a senior student during my first year. She advised me to work consistently and never leave everything until the last minute because organisation is a fundamental part of creating a collection. Another very important piece of advice came from my teachers during the development of this collection: to meticulously take care of every detail. Being precise and attentive is essential, as presentation matters greatly.

How Gen Z Contributes to the Future of Fashion

From your perspective, what does your generation contribute to the future of fashion?

Shreya: I think our generation isn’t afraid to challenge the status quo. We design with care, considering both the environment and the people who create and wear the clothes. There’s a growing sense that fashion can bring people together, empower them, and blur boundaries.

Giulia Lin: We see fashion as a tool for personal expression, closely tied to our everyday emotions. With Hyphen, my goal was to highlight the importance of balancing our inner worlds and finding space between productivity and well-being. We aim to contribute to a more conscious form of fashion—one that articulates the uncertainties and challenges we face. This approach to fashion begins with our feelings rather than merely focusing on how we’re expected to look.

Regina Branca: In my opinion, our generation has the potential to bring a reality check to the fashion industry, which has, in recent years, been overly cautious and hesitant to take risks or challenge traditional aesthetic codes. Often, brands lack a genuine effort to create something truly new; instead, they tend to prioritise sales performance, neglecting the fact that this approach no longer appeals to young consumers. This is also why many young people are turning away from luxury brands. At the same time, there’s a noticeable gap between runway collections and those created by fashion students who are eager to express creativity and innovation.

Shared Values Behind Gen Z Fashion Innovation

What unites these designers is not a shared aesthetic but a profound depth of thought. Whether they’re translating masculinity through softness, harmonising life’s contradictions, or preserving abandoned beauty through fabric and flowers, their collections challenge fashion to do more than decorate; they ask it to speak, connect, and care.
For students studying fashion, art, or anything in between, their stories serve as reminders that inspiration often begins in something deeply personal—a photograph, a feeling, a village, or a memory. Let this be our reminder: the future of fashion isn’t solely dictated by trends but is rooted in truth. And that truth starts with you.