By Aria Ixchel. Photos by Gabriele Busi.

With less than a month to go before the Istituto Marangoni Firenze 2025 Fashion Show, the Florence campus is buzzing with energy. For many fashion design students, this event marks the culmination of a journey that began more than nine months ago, filled with research, exploration, experimentation, and creative growth.
To gain insight into this process, I had the opportunity to sit down with Miguel García Abad, Programme Leader in Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni Firenze. Miguel understands what it means to be a student. After studying at Istituto Marangoni in Milan and London, he went on to present his own fashion design collection at Milan Fashion Week, an experience that shaped his career and now informs the way he teaches.

Miguel shared his perspective on what it takes to prepare the first collection for the runway, what defines success for emerging designers, and how he balances creative freedom with technical precision in mentoring the next generation of fashion visionaries.
Read the full interview to discover Miguel’s insider tips on how to build your first fashion design collection and make sure it’s runway-ready.

Before we dive into the journey that students undertake, could you share a bit about your background and how your path in fashion began?

I am originally from Córdoba, Spain, and I am an alumnus of Istituto Marangoni, where I studied fashion design in both Milano and London. After completing my studies, I immediately started working—first at Loewe, then with various independent designers in London. Eventually, I began presenting my own collections and was selected for the Next Generation competition by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. This opportunity allowed me to showcase at Milan Fashion Week for several seasons. Although it involved a lot of solo work, I had the opportunity to collaborate with sponsors like Swarovski Elements and even had my collections featured at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Education came later in my career, and unexpectedly, it brought me a different sense of fulfilment.

This wasn’t initially part of the script, but hearing how deeply rooted this is for you, I’m curious: how did you first discover this passion?

I’ve always been involved in it; it’s not something I ever really “discovered.” The moment that felt truly magical was my first day at Istituto Marangoni back in 2007. That was the first time I realised that I could actually study fashion design and pursue it as a profession. I had always been drawing and creating, but I never really considered it as a career; it was simply part of who I was. So, that moment of recognition was incredibly beautiful. Even now, I feel lucky. Just today, for example, I finished a drawing and was struck by how it reflects the same kind of work I’ve been doing since I was a kid. That connection has never left me.

The Step-by-Step Journey of Fashion Design Students Preparing for the Big Show

What does the journey look like for students preparing the concept for their first collection?

It’s a long, transformative process. It begins with reflection, where students consider what is happening in the world and how they respond to it. This initial reflection becomes the seed of their concept.

From that point, the focus shifts from rushing to deliver the final product to building something meaningful step by step. This process includes exploring silhouettes, experimenting with materials, and developing colour stories. It’s a very explorative and emotional approach.

Students may not always know what the outcome will be, but the journey itself helps reveal it. Ultimately, the process serves as a means of self-discovery. As creatives, students invest their own thoughts, fears, wonders, and imagination into their work. This not only allows us to understand who they are as individuals but also as creative beings.

How does the process evolve from the initial idea to the runway showcase?

It’s a long process that typically takes around nine months or more. Students progress step by step. Each month includes a fitting, which at first seems like it’s for us as mentors, but it ultimately serves the students more. These fittings become moments of reflection and dialogue for them. With each fitting, they begin to understand what is working, what is not, and how their concept is taking shape in reality. These moments can be joyful, sometimes frustrating, but they are always revealing. Fittings become crucial checkpoints in the students’ journey, helping them stay connected to the core of their ideas while continuously evolving them.

What role do you play in that process?

I work side by side with them, helping to align their inspiration with execution to ensure their vision becomes a reality. Flexibility is key as we often deal with ideas and forms we’ve never seen before. That’s why I consistently refer back to these two phrases: ‘Try it’ and ‘Ask yourself why.’

Having led this process for several years now, how has your approach to mentoring students for the Fashion Show evolved?

My approach has definitely evolved. Initially, I focused on ensuring that the students shone—not necessarily in terms of applause, but in making sure that their ideas matched the final result. Over time, I’ve learned that the journey isn’t linear; each student has their own path to get there, and that’s okay. Recently, I’ve come to understand that sometimes, a student’s vision requires a broader support system. I’m now very open to involving external collaborators, such as tailors, artisans, or specific suppliers. Each student has unique needs that sometimes exceed what we can provide in the studio. I actively encourage this kind of collaboration, as it often elevates the work and supports the student in a more meaningful way.

From Sketch to Runway: What Does It Really Take to Create Your First Collection?

How do you know when a collection is ready to be presented to the selection panel?

When considering the final selection, it is essential to take into account the school’s nearly 90 years of heritage, which has shaped a distinct approach to runway presentations. Beyond that legacy, we focus on storytelling, innovation, and execution. A fashion show isn’t just about technically perfect garments; it’s about the narrative they convey on the runway. Visual impact, messages, and coherence are all critical factors. Volume, silhouette, and colour play a big role, but above all, the work must feel alive. That’s what truly allows it to stand out.
I’m also grateful that I’m not the one making the final decisions. Since I work closely with students throughout their journey, it would not be easy for me to remain objective. Thankfully, a group of experts comes together to select the fashion design collections, which is a great way to ensure fairness and fresh perspectives.

You were once selected for the runway yourself. What was that moment like?

For me, it was a truly magical experience that had a profound impact on who I am today. I worked incredibly hard for that fashion show, and seeing the results meant the world to me because it boosted my confidence. I opened the show at Milan Fashion Week, which was no easy feat. I introduced a new fabric containing 80% optical fibre; at the time, the highest percentage used previously was around 40%. No one wanted to sew or work with it, so I had to do everything myself. It was an intensely solitary process, which made the outcome all the more meaningful. Later, through my participation in the Swarovski Elements contest at Istituto Marangoni, which I ultimately won, I not only opened the show but also closed it, presenting six outfits on the runway instead of the usual three. That experience gave me the confidence boost I needed.

What advice would you give to current and future fashion design students as they prepare their collections —creatively, technically, and mentally—to make the most of this transformative experience?

Don’t try to fit into the existing fashion world. Pay attention to what’s happening in the world, resources, and alternative design methods. This path is very vocational and demands your time, drive and dedication. Ask yourself how you want to respond to what’s happening around you and what kind of impact you want to have. Think deeply about why you design and how you do it. My advice is to remain honest, aligned with your values, and true to your vision, as well as that of a future designer who respectsthe Earth. Fashion is not just clothes. It’s a way to reflect, question, and interpret the world.

Thank you Miguel, see you at the Fashion Show!

As the lights are tested and the final stitches are made, it becomes clear that the runway is just the final chapter in a much longer narrative—one shaped by courage, curiosity, and the patience (along with passion) to trust the process. With mentors like Miguel García, students at Istituto Marangoni Firenze aren’t just preparing for a show; they are learning how to communicate through form and how to create with purpose.