By Naufal Farras and Giulia Piceni. Cover image: Getty Image courtesy of Vogue.com
The next MET Gala, scheduled for May 5th, 2025, in New York, will spotlight Black dandyism, a powerful fashion movement rooted in elegance and resistance. Concurrently, the exhibition titled Superfine: Tailoring Black Style will take a deeper look at this rich theme. When the MET Gala theme was unveiled – a rare exhibition focused on menswear – it sparked a deep exploration into the figures who shaped the Black dandy ideal.
Black dandyism, a movement rooted in style, elegance, and resistance, became a powerful way for Black men to reclaim dignity and self-expression through fashion.
While names like Dapper Dan are well-known, we discovered that much of this history has been shaped by lesser-known figures, often overshadowed by mainstream couturiers but no less impactful. Their work, long underappreciated, stands as a testament to cultural resistance. Let’s explore these forgotten narratives as we await the MET archives to reveal m ore, bringing new names from the past to the forefront.
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• Peter T. Robinson: The Tailor of the Harlem Renaissance
During the early 20th century, Harlem was not just a cultural hub but also a centre for Black fashion. Peter T. Robinson, a prominent tailor in Harlem, played a crucial role in defining the elegant style of Black dandies during the Harlem Renaissance. His finely crafted suits were worn by intellectuals, artists, and performers, many of whom used fashion as a form of self-expression and rebellion. Robinson’s designs helped shape the sophisticated, tailored image of the Black dandy during that era.
• George Walker: the performer who brought black dandyism to the stage
Vaudeville performer George Walker may not have been a fashion designer in the traditional sense, but his stage presence had a significant impact on the black dandy aesthetic. As one half of the iconic duo “Williams and walker”, alongside Bert Williams, Welker redefined Black masculinity, portraying elegance and sophistication. His performances showcased dandyism in a way that challenged the stereotypes of the time, presenting a stylish, confident image that resonated with a variety of audiences. While he didn’t personally design the garment, his collaboration with talented Black tailors resulted in meticulously detailed suits that amplified his stage persona, turning his performances into a visual and cultural statement.
Walker’s dandy image was more than just about the clothing: it was a blend of performance art and fashion. His fashion presentation, complete with top hats, gloves, and canes, became a part of his stage character, embodying the refinement of dandy culture. By integrating these sartorial elements with his talent, Walker helped elevate dandyism beyond a mere fashion trend, validating it as a pivotal part of Black identity in entertainment. His legacy as a performer and style icon lives on through generations, influencing the future of dandies and leaving a mark in fashion history.
• Arthur McGee: The Bridge Between Tradition and Modernity
Born in Detroit, Arthur McGee was an American fashion designer who made history in the 1950s as the first African American designer to lead a fashion studio on New York City’s esteemed Seventh Avenue. This broke boundaries in an industry that was largely segregated at the time. Although his career was somewhat erased from the early Black Dandy movement, McGee’s fashion design approach had the same core values of elegance, perfection, and quiet rebellion that signified that cultural tradition. His works resonate with new black designers who, like their dandy predecessors, used impeccable style and sophistication as tools to express their identity and pride.
McGee’s method of designing menswear paid homage to the ethos of excellence by blending the timeless aspect of traditional tailoring with innovation. His creations achieved a masterful balance between classic and contemporary elements, mirroring both the heritage of black dandyism and the modern realities of mid-20th-century fashion. By designing garments that exuded dignity and elegance, McGee not only contributed to the rise of Black fashion but also left an indelible legacy on the ever-evolving fashion world, redefining what it means to be both stylish and revolutionary in his era.
• Dapper Dan: Redefining Dandyism for a New Generation
Dapper Dan (Daniel Day) was a groundbreaking figure in the 1970s and 80s who reimagined the Black dandy tradition for a modern audience. Working from his legendary boutique in Harlem, Dan became renowned for creating bespoke luxury garments that amazingly blended elements of street culture with high-end fashion. Consequently, he pioneered a new form of sartorial rebellion and empowerment, much like the earlier Black dandies who used fashion as a means of self-expression and resistance against societal norms.
Dapper Dan’s collaborations with influential cultural icons serve as a bridge between the refined, understated elegance of classic dandyism and the bold, extravagant styles that were prominent in the late 20th century. By connecting the past and present, Dan illustrated that dandyism was not just a historical phenomenon but a lasting and growing cultural force in Black fashion. His designs proved that the values of sophistication, creativity, and individuality that established the dandy tradition remained as relevant as ever, influencing a new generation of Black fashion designers.
Despite his immense influence on style, Dapper Dan was not invited to the MET Gala 2025, which has sparked discussions about African American representation in high-fashion events. The exclusion of influential figures like Dapper Dan is seen as a missed opportunity for the MET Gala to showcase the variety and richness of contemporary fashion authentically. Notable personalities who received an invitation as co-chairs for next year’s event include Pharrell Williams, musician and creative director of Louis Vuitton’s Menswear; the rapper A$AP Rocky; Colman Domingo, actor; and LeBron James, NBA superstar.