By Giulia Piceni. Photographs by Gabriele Busi.
How can we navigate the increasingly complex fashion system? Multidisciplinarity, authenticity, and slowness are key characteristics for making strides in fashion without ever compromising your identity. Curious to know more? Read our report on our enlightening conversation with Luca Lin and the Medea sisters, who are mentors at Istituto Marangoni Firenze.
A blackout suddenly plunged the Cinema La Compagnia into darkness. While the stage remained illuminated, the only other light came from the screens of the students’ cell phones in the audience, capturing notes or snapping photos. As soon as the guests stepped onto the stage, the audience fell silent. The moderator was Sara Sozzani Maino, the director of the Sozzani Foundation and a leading fashion talent scout, so many students were tempted to show her their portfolios after the discussion. Also present were Luca Lin and the Venturini twin sisters, representing the MEDEA brand. As the speakers and moderator settled into their seats, the audience’s attention was riveted on them. This is the retelling of what happened during the meeting.
LUCA LIN AND MEDEA SISTERS SAY: OLD BUT GOLD, MULTIDISCIPLINARITY IS THE KEY
To bring genuine creativity also means not being afraid of putting oneself out there and seeking inspiration from other disciplines. The best ideas often come from unexpected sources and mixtures. During the talk, the mentors of Istituto Marangoni Firenze emphasised the importance of cross-pollination in their creative process. They pointed out that seeking inspiration solely from the fashion industry would be a huge limitation for any creative.
For example, creative director Luca Lin has placed significant importance on multiculturalism since the beginning of his work at Act No1. This concept was also shared with his former working partner, Galib Gassanoff. The two designers behind the brand advocated for a blend of cultures through deconstructed garments with a sartorial style, championing their radically different origins in this shared project. After they parted ways, Luca Lin continued to develop this core feature of the brand, incorporating his personal experience with his Chinese heritage.
The Venturini sisters of MEDEA showcase their multidisciplinary approach through collaborations with artists such as Nan Goldin and Judith Bernstein. Their connection with the world of art is deeply rooted in their formative years spent in the vibrant cultural hub of New York. By working alongside photographers or artists, they have successfully created a distinctive cultural background that enhances their fashion experiments.
GENUINE INTENTS ARE GOING TO BE PAID BACK, LUCA LIN AND MEDEA SISTERS QUOTED
Believing in something and spreading awareness is crucial for a fashion brand that has a strong identity and purpose in today’s world. During the talk with mentors from Istituto Marangoni Firenze, Sara Sozzani Maino encouraged guests to share stories from their working lives that were somewhat unconventional, going beyond the system and the public’s expectations.
For a fashion brand, it often seems natural to collaborate with artists, as they belong to the world of creativity. However, these synergies are rarely seen outside of this sphere. In this sense, the Venturini sisters have rewritten the rules by starting a collaboration aimed at showcasing what they truly believe in beyond creativity: helping others. Mediterranea is a non-profit organisation committed to aiding immigrants from Libya and Tunisia who are seeking better economic conditions in Europe and have to endure the dramatic Mediterranean crossing to pursue this dream.
The Venturini sisters, who have always been involved in charity and have a strong desire to support others, decided to use their brand as a platform for the association’s charitable activities.
To do this, they created a bag with the slogan “Support Saving Humans” and the bank details for donating to Mediterranea. In this historical moment, when neutrality in the face of immense tragedies is encouraged, taking a stand and helping the weakest is an act of great courage. And it’s even more commendable when it’s done intelligently through creativity.
On the other hand, Luca Lin, the creative director of Act No1, stated that the brand is committed to raising awareness about various societal issues, including child marriage, which is still prevalent in many regions worldwide. To shed light on this heartbreaking problem, Luca Lin incorporated tulle fabric in the brand’s creations, subtly alluding to the delicate innocence of young girls. Specifically, during the SS 2024 fashion show, the runway featured a veiled bride, serving as a poignant reminder of the seriousness of the issue.
DON’T BE AFRAID TO WRITE YOUR OWN RULES
Encouraging a slower pace in an industry like fashion may seem contradictory at first, but it certainly isn’t for the Venturini sisters, who present their accessory collections only twice a year. On the other hand, Luca Lin participates in fashion weeks only when it’s feasible and sustainable for the brand while opting for showroom presentations on other occasions. This approach allows the brand to showcase its meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail directly to the press and industry insiders.
In a system that is constantly demanding production or continuous presence at fashion weeks, rebelling against the overwhelming dynamics can truly make a difference.
This is not only for the generation of designers represented by Luca Lin and the Venturini sisters but also for the designers of the future. In this regard, Sara Sozzani Maino’s words at the conclusion of the talk were clear and resonant, leaving an impact on the minds and hearts of the students.
After considering the experiences of the mentors present and the many talents she has spoken to throughout her career, she encouraged the birth of a brand only if it arises spontaneously, naturally and without any external pressure. Sara Sozzani Maino also stated that one should not be afraid of doing something that has already been done; as long as they have a strong personality and authentic ideas, their work will always be original.
Leveraging the experiences of mentors, the director of the Sozzani Foundation also emphasised the importance of hands-on experience for the students. She said they should challenge themselves in a real working environment, experiment, seize opportunities and be aware that their aspirations and ideas can change over the years. Humans, especially creative individuals, are inclined to reinvent themselves multiple times throughout life, and that’s a natural process.
For example, a student fresh out of fashion school may have different dreams and aspirations five years down the line. And that’s okay; it’s alright to be surprised by life. Also, the more you put yourself out there, the higher the chances of succeeding, as well as experiencing rejection. This should not discourage anyone with clear objectives in their mind. Being open to surprises, following a completely personal path and trusting one’s instincts are all crucial for navigating the complex yet exciting world of fashion.
