By Guia Rossi. Cover image courtesy of: @kwee.va
Pitti Uomo 106, the important fashion fair, is more than just a trade show. It is an inclusive container of ideas and points of view that are relevant to everyone. The 106th edition will take place in Florence from 11 to 14 June, featuring various events inside and outside the Fortezza da Basso. Guest stars such as Marine Serre, Paul Smith, PlanC and Missoni will showcase their collections designed for men during this edition.
Pitti Uomo is like a powerful magnet, attracting excellence and creativity from all over the world. Searching for what is truly new and revolutionary requires keen observation, much like truffle dogs sniffing for truffles. To speed up the process, we attempted to identify the brands participating in the event that were dedicated to the trends for spring/summer 2025 and would certainly make a difference. As we circled the world map, our attention was drawn to China, Uganda, Denmark, France and Italy, enchanted by the stories and visions of designers who are busy rewriting the style of an increasingly aware and discerning future.
What are the 5 rookie brands at Pitti Uomo 106 to get to know and wear now
VALLEYOUTH, dresses from China become landscapes at Pitti Uomo 106
Co-founded by Li Wenjie, stylist, and landscape designer Geng Hualiang, Valleyouth is a young menswear brand that combines the concepts of Valley and Youth and incorporates them into its clothing designs. It is part of the CHINA WAVE project, which is a collaboration between Pitti Uomo and the China National Garment Association. This project aims to showcase the best of Chinese contemporary menswear at the Costruzioni Lorenesi. The design is inspired by natural elements starting from everyday experiences and personal intuitions. It portrays youth as a state of mind, blending an independent attitude with a quest for freedom. Keep an eye on it because, after its showcase at Pitti Uomo in Florence, it will be displayed in Milan during menswear Fashion Week on 18 June, the final day of the event.
10.03.53 unisex, season-less French bags
10.03.53 is a creative workshop and accessories brand based in the legendary Belleville district of Paris. Through unisex bag models, 10.03.53 aims for organic beauty and technical simplicity, deliberately moving away from decorative elements to emphasise innovation and experimentation beyond traditional leather goods. The brand is present in Florence as part of the selection of Promas French Menswear Fédération and DEFI, the organisation for the development of French menswear. They cut, sew and break to start again. With a seasonless approach, the brand’s manifesto rests on three fundamental elements: the use of noble and sustainable materials, innovation through reinforced concrete structures, waterproof and indestructible paper and a timeless colour palette. Behind the project is Luca, an Italian who has travelled the world and trained at Gucci in Florence. After working in Mexico, he finally settled in Paris, where he decided to launch his leather goods research project as a tribute to the memory of his father, using his father’s birthdate, 3 March 1953.
About Florania, an idea, a project, a solution at Pitti Uomo 106
A name reminiscent of a planet from fantastic literature, like something out of an Isaac Azimov novel, even though it is actually located in Italy, in an imaginary corridor between Milan and Mantua. Flora Rabitti created Florania in 2021 with the idea of supporting local sartorial and textile traditions by designing clothes with minimal climate impact and a lot of positive influence. With her, we talk about regenerative design, the enhancement of existing materials combined with the search for innovative fibres suitable for creating a genderless, locally-focused, and solar-punk product. This product is born by ‘breaking’ the rules in an optimistic way, leaning towards the future of human and technological resources. Sweatshirts and t-shirts are made by SPAARKD, a division of the green brand Pangaia, while the Japanese Kyocera Corporation provides the printing of surreal patterns using ‘FOREARTH’, an innovative printer designed to reduce water usage. This installation La Fuga SS25 RESORT can be found at Pitti Uomo, as part of the S|STYLE #8 selection, which is part of the Fondazione Pitti Discovery’s exhibition project focusing on circular luxury.
CAOIMHE DOWLING from Denmark with a passion for writing and the past
Based in Copenhagen, Denmark, Caoimhe Dowling is a brand that takes an interdisciplinary approach to creating clothing and textiles, drawing inspiration from the past, writing and a childhood spent on the south coast of Ireland. The brand’s genderless garments are made from a mix of freshly woven artisan wool and found and reclaimed natural fibres. The ‘Turning Blue’ collection is a reflection on how blue we felt as a society after the pandemic, embracing opportunity in the face of cynicism and disillusionment to propel us towards greater change. The collection was created by reimagining the sartorial codes around recognisable patterns such as traditional herringbone and broderie anglaise to reflect our contemporary context and envision a more optimistic future.
BUZIGAHILL upcycled fashion (re)sent to sender
In an act of defiance called RETURN TO SENDER, the Kampala-based fashion brand BUZIGAHILL, founded by Bobby Kolade, redesigns second-hand clothes and sends them back to the Global North, i.e. where they were originally discarded before they were shipped to Uganda. BUZIGAHILL is named after a neighbourhood in Kampala where Bobby Kolade and a group of friends from the visual arts, music and film scene lived during the inception stage. It is a special area of the city, with lake views, lush greenery and architectural remnants of a past era. Beyond RETURN TO SENDER, BUZIGAHILL collaborates with visual artists, fashion designers, second-hand market vendors and artisanal workshops in Uganda to enhance local supply chains and foster strong creative industries. In Uganda, an estimated 80% of all clothing purchases are second-hand. These initiatives directly address the impact of second-hand clothing on Uganda’s textile industry and contribute to a national textile and clothing movement.
