By Giulia Piceni. Cover photo by Rosy Ramirez.
How do we become silver jewellery artists? And how can we build a personal style by crafting jewellery? “Let me show you my workshop,” said Arlo Haisek as we entered his small shop. Located on Via dei Bardi in Florence, just a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio, this road filled with history leads to Piazzale Michelangelo. Its curves and its slight uphill make it an important route for both locals and tourists. The cream-coloured flag outside his shop pays homage to the city’s heritage with a mediaeval twist. Florentine tradition, combined with a fantasy world of charming princes and fairy-like damsels, is vividly reflected in the liquid-silver creations of jewellery maker and designer Arlo Haisek.
Jewelry maker Arlo Haisek welocome us to his laboratory
In that little shop, it’s easy to imagine him as a modern-day version of a forger crafting swords and armours, infusing his jewellery with a natural touch by embracing the unexpected and the imperfect. The ambience and his craftsmanship create a sense of historical continuity, connecting a mystical past with the present through his unique designs. Students from the Multimedia Arts course had the opportunity to showcase his work through narrative-based photoshoots. They blended their photographic creativity with Haisek’s 31 years of expertise to craft distinctive stories through gems and chiselled metal. Their collaborative efforts created a new dimension, highlighting the interplay between visual art and fine jewellery. A few weeks after the project, we visited his workshop, which provided the perfect occasion to deepen our understanding of his craft, style, references, and history. Here’s our conversation about his work and the historical influences that shape his distinctive artistic vision.
Which is your first memory linked to jewellery?
My first memory of jewellery is my aunt’s ring. She pays particular attention to beautiful gemstones such as ruby, diamond, and sapphire. My mom doesn’t wear any jewellery. I am attracted to the beauty of jewels and gemstones, as well as the mineral collection from my grandfather. For example, he had amethyst, pyrite, and desert roses. The world of minerals attracted me a lot. He also had a collection of coins and did a little metalwork.
When did you first start experimenting in the field of jewellery?
I remember my teacher at the Institute of Art who held a lost wax techniques workshop. She was very kind and gave me a lot of attention and guidance. This technique became one of my favourites, and I developed a strong connection with the material and the process. In the end, I never stopped, and I will never stop. I tried to create a small flower with many droplets, and my professor likely still has my first pieces of jewellery.
Which creation of yours are you most emotionally attached to?
I don’t have it here now, but it’s the bee. I made a bee using multiple materials. For example, I set mother-of-pearl for the wings, honey jade for the yellow part, and something else for the body. This is one of my favourites. In fact, my wife has one, and I have one too. Mick Jagger’s ex-girlfriend also has the dragonfly, which features baroque pearls and blue sapphires for the wings. Now, I love the flamingo. It took me about four years to complete because I needed to work on it thoroughly. It features coral, mother-of-pearl, and tiger eye.
Recently, you also ventured into interior design.
I started when I was 14, and now, at 45, after 31 years in the jewellery world, I love to explore other domains. I started making candles with Carrara marble from upcycling. For other creations, I use rocks from the Via Francigena, through which great figures like Leonardo da Vinci and the writer Boccaccio Dante passed. There are also pieces that are infused with a Dalì touch; I am also inspired by my favourite great masters, particularly their work with eggs.
I also love making small plants with rubies, sapphires, and tourmaline. In earrings, I enjoy starting with a gem and creating a plant-like structure, such as yellow citrine. Sometimes, I need to develop cleaner designs to suit the market. When I have more free time, I love to mix many gemstones and minerals. This beautiful citrine crystal, for example. I love seeing it grow naturally, like a drop of water. It’s incredible, I love it.
I sometimes come across interesting gemstones that are very high quality, such as small quartz rocks that contain an entire world crystallised inside them. I feel like I am in a deep conversation with the raw materials.
So it all starts with the gems
Yes, I start my work with raw natural materials. I also experimented with upcycled leather many years ago when there was a lot of leather upcycling in Santa Croce sull’Arno. They gave me different leathers, and I conducted numerous experiments. I also attempted to create small bags for belts, inspired by an idea from the late ’90s. Another experiment I undertook was with the satchel, a very Florentine type of bag, which is totally in line with our heritage. I am drawn to the history of the Renaissance; I love this influence, and it inspires me as it resonates with my background.
Which are the two things that you hate and love about your craft?
I love, deep in my heart, to convey a message through my work. I am passionate about high-level, challenging techniques that may involve intricate mechanisms or the use of advanced technology. My goal is to combine every art and science to create a beautiful work of art.
I don’t appreciate it when art is overly simple or relies solely on technology.
Art that is just basic colours or simple messages lacks depth. I admire artists who use the best scientific techniques to create meaningful, ethical messages. Sometimes, art can be superficial, created solely for business purposes, and I avoid that.
An artist must be responsible and sustainable. When I design my jewellery, I strive to avoid welding, as it causes pollution. For over 25 years, I’ve focused on this because it’s crucial. I believe every artist and designer should prioritise ethical practices that minimise pollution.
How was it collaborating with the multimedia arts students for the photo shoots?
The collaboration with the multimedia arts students was fantastic. They captured our style and atmosphere perfectly for each piece of jewellery. I love sharing ideas and seeing different interpretations. When I create, I envision modern chevaliers and damsels, contemporary yet romantic, with attention to detail and a touch of romanticism.
What would you advise young creatives who are interested in artistic jewellery?
The frame. Valorise the frame. The craft, unfortunately, isn’t enough. There isn’t much connection between the artist and the market. Big companies like Cartier or Tiffany understand this; they have workers dedicated to this task. I think it’s a new type of role. They write and explain the best aspects of the artist, the designer, and the brand so that people can better understand what the designer wants to convey. Communication, in the end, is one of the most important things in this world. Good pictures and good writing are essential. You need to have a vision.
Yes, I think this is the most important thing. You could be creating the best work in the world for 50 years in your cave, but if you don’t share it, no one will know. With technology and the web, you need good pictures and the right storytelling. This is what helps people see what the designer is creating. The world is full of designs, and they need this kind of work. Storytellers can amplify what designers believe in. If you believe in a designer, you can help make their work more prominent.
I have one last question that came up during our conversation: how did Mick Jagger’s ex-girlfriend end up at your shop?
Many musicians have visited my store and admired my work. For example, Mick Jagger’s former girlfriend occasionally visits to buy items, and she even once gave me a picture of herself wearing my jewellery. She has now relocated from Hollywood and now lives in Florence. You might spot her around the city.
Additionally, Tame Impala, Cody Chesnutt from The Roots, Angelina Mango, and Ligabue wear my jewellery. I also create pieces for Miles Kane from the UK; he’s a friend, and sometimes friends help each other out.
Remember that when you are determined to pursue your work, step by step, everything falls into place. The best things happen when you persist.
